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Model PR650NOVET: State Select Water Heater
Every week or so I have to restart this water heater and everything works fine until the next time the indicator light comes on. No gas smells. Question sounds like the same problem as "darrendemay Oct 21, 2007 but he had zero answers" question. My water heater is about 8 years old.
Thanks
Does this unit have a power vent? (forced duct)
Only thing I could think it would be is the thermocouple is either bad, or has carbon buildup. I'd check this first make sure there is no apparent buildup on your thermocouple or nothing metallic has come into contact with it. This device acts as a failsafe for the heater and will shut it down if conditions aren't right.
If it appears to be in bad shape replace it.
If I am not mistaken, these heaters have 6 years warranty. After that, you wait until it stops working and repair would be cost prohibitive. If it is a bad thermocoupling than replace it. If it is bad thermostat - than you have a decision to make. If it is not the thermocoupling than I would not repair. I would replace it with new unit.
I agree with Milo, Thanks.
John
Thanks for the help!Quote:
Originally Posted by ovruigo
It is a power vented unit. I will check the thermocouple out. I figured an eight year old unit would probably be out of warranty but if it is a minor problem, it would be worth a little effort. I'm a new user and I hope this response is going to the right direction.
Thanks again
Will check it out
Ovruigo is asking right questions...
Power vented hot water heater uses so called Double Wall Vent. This vent consists of 2 pipes, one inserted into another one. Inner vent power-discharges burnt fumes while outer vent sucks in oxygen necessary for proper combustion of the heater. Heater will stop working if you have one of the following vent related problems:
1. Vent intake / discharge is blocked ( like with nesting birds, other animals, etc )
2. Motor on that powers the oxygen intake is not working properly. As result, your heater doesn't have enough oxygen supply to support combustion
3. Double Wall vent is sold in pieces of various lengths. Installer has to pay close attention to its installation making sure Male/Female vent ends are properly inserted and locked into each other. If inner vent is loose, outer vent will suck burnt gases into oxygen intake vent killing pilot in process.
Check on the vent. If all in order, do the following test: Go to your heater. Turn Thermostat to Maximum (hot) setting. Go to your shower and turn hot water ON and let it run. Go back to your heater. Heater will be activated. Stay by the heater and see if it shuts down in next few minutes.
I set the thermostat to max and turned on the shower. Burner and power vent worked fine. Left shower run for 5-10 minutes and heater ignited and continued to heat and vent. Checked out the vent itself. Uses a 3" PVC discharge for a few inches at the vent motor and reduces to a 2" PVC pipe out to the outside. 45 degree elbow outside has an intack screen that is not plugged. Felt hard discharge air being vented from heater to the outside. This was a new construction install eight years ago. Looked in my manual left by the builder and it shows an optional 2" installation for 40-50 Gal 40,000 BTU units. I don't see any sign of a double pipe. (see attachment)Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal
Thanks!
Thank you for the posted information: Now I know you don't have "Direct Vent" water heater as I assumed but heater with "Power Vent", only. Therefore, no double wall vent.
If you feel air coming out with force than blower and vent should be fine. Then, I would concentrate on: 1. ThermoCoupling... and... 2. Thermostatic valve. First, replace thermocoupling. See if the problem disappears.
Yeh. It works fine 90% of the time but once in a while, just when you need to take a shower with no time to wait, its been out. Always fires up if I restart but bothersome. Thanks, I'll look into the thermocoupling. Going on 11:00PM here in Michigan. Did these messages come through the right way. I'm getting these answers fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal
Thanks again
I have the same water heater - power-vented PR650NOVET. About once every other month I use a small wire brush to GENTLY clean off the carbon buildup on the sensor that is mounted next to the ignitor. If I fail to do this, I get the same issue - water heater cuts out at the most inopportune moments but will restart immediately if I unplug it and plug it back in.
Milo -- I'm having the same problem on the same water heater model. The red light on the control unit was blinking steadily, but I cannot seem to find a manual online for this model (PR6 50 NOVET). When I turned power off to the unit and turned it back on, the red light went out and the heater seems to be working fine now (vent motor blowing, heater came on, water getting hot). If this happens again, WHERE would I find the thermocoupling and the thermostatic valve? There are two wires going into the duct work just upstream from the blower motor near the PVC pipe, but that's all I see on the surface that appears to be accessible. Any further clarification is greatly appreciated.
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