I have a Kenmore Elite washer model 11022932100. It started not spinning occasionaly, but my girlfriend would slam the lid down and it would make it work. It has gotten worse over time and now it does not want to spin at all. It has also gotten to where it does not want to drain sometimes. Where should I start troubleshooting?

chadwade4- f rom what you have said ,the door switch is probley broken and needs replaced< it was probley becoming defective before ::here is a list of the most proable causes:: #1check and test the door{lid} switch- turn the power off to dryer: have -volt ohm test meter< if you have to get one <make sure you get one that you can test at least 250 volts a/c power;; you can go to lowe's or homs depot to the electrical dept > and get one for less then $15.00 ;; #2- the switch is located under the lid; on some you habve to raise the top to get to the switch;; #3- loosen the mounting screws on the spray sheild: #3a- reach under the sprayshieldwith your finger and you sdhould be able to tell if the switch is broken or not :: now reach under the spraysheild and adjust the switch a very little , with the meter probes cliped to the wire terminals:both wires need to be disconnected from the wire terminals:: close the lid< and if meter reads{ zero-ohms}the switch is good<if it reads high<switch is defective and needs replaced:: { note - this swiych ,if out of adjustment <broken <or defective <will not let the washer spin at all ::
#2- the {timer switch -regulates the sequence of the fill,drain,agitate,and spinn;in tandem with the temp< selector switch: this switch you cannot test <allyou could do was to check the wire terminals for corrosion:: #3- the spin solenoids are under the tub,on the motor< there are two of them <one to operate the spinn cycle and the other is for the agitate cycle :if one is bsd it is required to replace both sat the same time < on some modles there is no aigtate and spinn solenoids on them #3a- set the volt ohm meter to the rx-100 scale: disconnect one iof the wires and clip the meter probes to the terminals,of one of the soleniods; ;#3b- if the reading on the meter is 250 to 1,000 ohms, the soleniod is good; repeat this on the other one also; if the meter reads higher the soleniod is defective replace both:: here is the list i spoke of at first:: #1- lid safety swuitch out of adjustment< broken< or defective:: #2- drive belt slipping or broken:: #3- clothes hung up under the bottom of the tub;;
#4- spin soleniod defective:: #5washer draining poorly:: #6 timer faulty:: i hope that one of these will repair your washer< if it don't then come back to this post and holler:: if i have helped please rate my answer in the orange box below thanks and have a great day and god bless ::f.b.e.