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I bought a craftsman 5hp roto-tiller that has not been used much. It is hard to start. When I got it going it run fine on full choke. I moved the screw on the bowl on the bottom of the carbuerator and it died . Can't get it stated. How many revolutions do u turn it out fully closed? I want to take it off, clean it and reinstall. I really need a manual which I don't have. Is there a web site I can look at one.
You need the model number, 3 digts then a period and many more digits. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...t/index.action
Model # 143.707012 Instruction manual download or where I can view it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ballengerb1
Sears will not give you a free manual when they are trying to sell them for $12. Model #143707012 | SearsPartsDirect.com
They don't help you with a download or a view, they want you to buy the book.
Did you try to start this with ALL new gas? That is one of the missed common reasons for hard starting especially from a tool that's not used much. Also if it sits in a hot and cold garage that plays havoc in the fuel end octane. I use high Test fuel for all my small engines especially the added ethanol that's changing things in small engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by ;
There should be a warning label on all small engines " If not started for 6 months especially in inclimate weather storage, new gas may be needed"
Is this a fuel sediment bowl? Or a screw that's directly to the bottom on the carb. Id it's a sediment bowl then air may have gotten into it.
If this is a seat valve gently seat it and then back it out 1 1/4 turn generically.
I am going to put a new kit in the carbrater. I need to know how many turns to back out the 2 valves on it. One is underneath the bowl and the other is on the side of the carb.
And what should the gap be on the spark plug? Thanks.
Now I got to start looking for a new kit for this old engine. 143.707012 Craftsman.
I don't know exactly the carb adjustment but there is a way to tune that in
Obviously one should be the air and one the gas. I have mixers that shake and carry on and the needle seat spring to hold the valve gets whacked and shuts the engine down. The air part is fairly sublime, the fuel is more the key. If you haven't messed with the air at all then leave it for now. Again seat the fuel valve in and back off 1 to 1 1/4 turn. Try to start. If it doesn't start up on full choke and after a bunch of tries then back out fuel more until it tries to start or you smell gas in the muffler. Once you get it started the tweak is not hard. Just remember that the turns aren't much to adjust.
If it seems to run fine but under a load it a bit weak then more fuel is needed. If it seems to smoke a bit under load then more air is needed. Its in basics . Listen to the Rev of the engine and when it peaks as you adjust.
Many times people have the air all the way open and keep screwing it and say it doesn't work. That's usually because its wide open. The same thing in reverse happens also.
The difference between it being adjusted right testing under load and starting without flooding the engine out. There is the balance.
The carb kit might have info there. Even if you set it at factory it may need tweaked simply because the seats get old and they have a bad seats
I have to bother you one more time. Remember I have this used tiller with a Craftsman engine. 143.707012 . Had it running only on full choke. Now can't get it started. Being an amateur I thought I could fix it myself. Could take it to a repair shop but that is no fun. Anyway:
I took off the float bowl to clean it. Dummy me lost the inlet needle seat assembly. Never did see it. Lost in old thrown out fuel or swept out garage.
Took carburetor off and found Idle screw screwed in tight.. Took it out. No O ring.
I have ordered all new parts more or less from Sears. Idle Screw Assembly---Adjustment scew assembly--Idle needle seat assembly--and bowl gasket.
Before they come, the Inlet needle seat & clip assembly shows 3 parts.
I am not sure exactly how they go in. The needle I know but the seat and clip may baffle me.
Darn repair manual costs $20 that I don't want to spend.
Can't find a good blown up diagram of a carburetor on the internet. 5hp engine
Thanks. Clf from Nebraska and retired
[QUOTE=;]I took off the float bowl to clean it. Dummy me lost the inlet needle seat assembly. Never did see it. Lost in old thrown out fuel or swept out garage./QUOTE]
That's common, many times my friends re build a one barrel carb and loose the two little steel balls and throws them out.
This should help. If it doesn't get back.
CRAFTSMAN | Model #143707012 | CRAFTSMAN ENGINE | CARBURETOR NO 632144 | SearsPartsDirect.com
If this is the carb you basically have the pin through the float should have a clip that attaches it. That clip should have a hole in it so it holds the pin or the pi when set in carb locks the pin in from slipping sideways and falling out. Off that clip which I call the "tang" you need to hang the meter gas plunger valve under it with the spring. This needs to have some free play. The way that seat works is the float rises, pivots on the pin. Pushes the back of that tang down for the gas valve so seat into the hole to shut off gas supply to bowl.
Get back if you need more help on the float valve adjustment on the tang and seats/spring clip etc.
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