Ask Me Help Desk - Cannot Maintain Water Pressure at Residential Well

Please Help!

In 2006 I purchased a 1963 home with an external well that is used solely for my two external spigots (the water for the home is provided by the city). Without any prior problems from the system, last year, I drew an unusually large amount of water from the well (water tank; Well-X-Trol WX-202, pressure switch; Pumptrol 20-40, pump; old Rapidayton model 5SA). When I went to work the following day, I noticed my pump was running, and the pressure on the gauge was 'bottomed out'. I unplugged the pump, and was later told that it needed to be reprimed. After the first attempt, it seemed to work (pump cut-out and stayed), but later that same day I found my pump running again with zero pressure. This led me to believe there was a leak somewhere. After closing the shutoff valves located at the pump/tank, I still was unable to successfully prime the pump or build up pressure. I then thought there was a problem with either the pump or the tank. I took the pump in to a repair shop, where they basically cleaned, lubed, and repacked it and said they didn't see anything wrong with it. I then checked the pressure in the tank, which was almost non-existent. I filled it up to 35 psi, just above the factory setting of 30 but still below the pump cut-off of 40. I checked the pressure about a week later, before reassembling the pipes, and the pressure remained the same. The pipes running under the house going to the two spigots are copper, and the ones connecting the well to the pump to the tank are PVC. I replaced and resealed the PVC pipes coming off the pump and tank, and when I try to prime it (shutoff's closed), the pressure bounces at about 30 psi for a few minutes, and then drops down to zero again. I've tried opening the shutoff valves, and turning on the spigot, and water and air sporadically spurt out of the hose, which leads me to believe the pump is working. I don't know how to tell if I have a bad tank, and I don't know what else to do. I haven't been able to wash my cars, or tend to my lawn/home for some time now, and I'm desperate!

-City Boy in the Country-

Quote:

I then checked the pressure in the tank, which was almost non-existent. I filled it up to 35 psi, just above the factory setting of 30 but still below the pump cut-off of 40. I checked the pressure about a week later, before reassembling the pipes, and the pressure remained the same.

You're talking about the pressure in the bladder tank and not the npressure at the hose bib aren`t you? And bye the way. The bladder tank pressure should be set at 2 PSI under the cut in point after the pump's shut off and the pressure's bled off. That would be 28 PSI in your case.
As for losing prime. Two things come to mind. A leak on the suction line or my personal favorite, a faulty check/foot valve. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedball1

You're talking about the pressure in the bladder tank and not the npressure at the hose bib aren`t you? And bye the way. The bladder tank pressure should be set at 2 PSI under the cut in point after the pump's shut off and the pressure's bled off. That would be 28 PSI in your case.
As for losing prime. Two things come to mind. A leak on the suction line or my personal favorite, a faulty check/foot valve. Good luck, Tom

Forgive my plumbing ignorance. Although I know what a check valve is and how it operates, where would the check/foot valve be located in this case? Inside the tank? You were correct in reference to the bladder pressure (not sure what or where the hose bib is); but if I reduce the bladder pressure, how do I know that the cut-in and/or cut-out switch is still at 20 and 40 respectively? (because that can be adjusted via the pressure switch, right?) The reason I ask is because, if I remember correctly, I do believe that before I had this problem, the gauge would read at remain at about 70 PSI when the switch cut-out. Thanks!!

Quote:

Forgive my plumbing ignorance. Although I know what a check valve is and how it operates, where would the check/foot valve be located in this case? Inside the tank? You were correct in reference to the bladder pressure (not sure what or where the hose bib is); but if I reduce the bladder pressure, how do I know that the cut-in and/or cut-out switch is still at 20 and 40 respectively? (because that can be adjusted via the pressure switch, right?) The reason I ask is because, if I remember correctly, I do believe that before I had this problem, the gauge would read at remain at about 70 PSI when the switch cut-out. Thanks!!

The check valve would be located above ground, close to the pump, just downstream of it on the suction line. The foot valve's located at the bottom of the suction pipe in the well. A hose bib,sill cock or outside hydrant ( all the same thing) is the valve you attach a hose to.

Quote:

if I reduce the bladder pressure, how do I know that the cut-in and/or cut-out switch is still at 20 and 40 respectively? (because that can be adjusted via the pressure switch, right?) The reason I ask is because, if I remember correctly, I do believe that before I had this problem, the gauge would read at remain at about 70 PSI when the switch cut-out.

You check the pressure gage to see when the pump cuts in. You then shut the power o0ff, drain the pressure out of the system and set the bladder tand at 2 PSI under the reading. And 70 PSI is way too high for a cut out pressure.
Try setting the control box, (do you need instructions?) back to 30 cut in and 50 PSI cut out. Too much pressure will put your faucets and pipe joints under a strain and reduce the life of your system. The average house pressure's 45 PSI. Good luck, tom

It seems as though the moment I plug the pump in, it cuts on, making it difficult to identify the cut-in value. And because I am unable to get the pressure high enough, it only shuts off if I unplug it. I have yet to identify the cause of the lost pressure (hole in suction line or bad check valve, as you said), but if I disconnect the suction line and pull it up to inspect it for holes/damage, will the foot/check valve come up with it? I wouldn't know how else to access it. Does that sound like a plausible approach?
(Your assistance and patience is tremendously sppreciated!)