One of the most dramatic expressions of popular devotion, in Spain; at all levels and during Easter time, are the processions of “pasos” or floats, with lifelike wooden sculptures featuring scenes of the events of Jesus’ Passion, or images of the Virgin Mary (called the “Dolorosa” the doleful) showing her profound and restrained anguish and pain before the crucifixion of her Son. Some of the sculptures are 300 or 400 years old and are considered artistic masterpieces.
Some of these “pasos” are extremely large and heavy and can weight anything from 1000 lbs. to 2.5 tons. Each “paso” may therefore, require from 24 to 240 “costaleros” raising and moving them along the established itinerary.
These “costaleros” (literally "sack men", for their distinctive - and functional - headdress), support the beams upon their shoulders and necks, lift, move and lower the “paso”. As they are all inside the structure and hidden from the external view by a curtain, the “paso” seems to move by itself. On the outside an overseer (capataz), guides the team by voice, and/or through a ceremonial hammer (“el llamador”) (caller) attached to the “paso”.
The structure of the paso is richly carved and decorated with fabric, flowers and candles. Many of the structures carrying the image of Christ are gilded, and those carrying the image of the Virgin often silver-plated. The Virgin herself is ornate with sumptuous mantles artistically embroidered with golden threads and a radial crown covered with diamonds and gems, which have been donated to the church by pious wealthy people. As of 2007, most of these “dolorosas” are covered by an ornate canopy or baldachin (palio) attached to the structure.
The sculptures themselves are carved and painted, and often life-size or larger. The oldest surviving were carved in the 16th century, though new images continue to be added
These processions are organized by religious brotherhoods (cofradías) in most of the important cities of the country.
The members of these “cofradías” precede and follow the “pasos” dressed in penitential robes and hoods. Some of these “cofradias” may have as many as 25000 persons (men, women and children) which, normally, are present at the procession.
The “cofradias” are associations of Catholic laypersons organised for the purpose of performing public acts of religious observance; in this case, related to the Passion and death of Jesus Christ and to perform public penance.
The brotherhoods, besides the day-to-day work in preparation for the processions, also undertake many other self-regulated religious activities, and charitable and community work. Many brotherhoods maintain their own chapel, while others are attached to a regular parish.
The best well known Easter celebrations are those in Seville, where from Palm Sunday trough to Easter Sunday morning this year there will be a total of 61 processions. As many as 7 of the most famous ones leave their home churches at 2 am on Good Friday and return home at 4 pm. It is called “la madrugá” (the dawn), and they spend those14 hours working along the different itineraries which are planned so that they can meet in the main avenues of the city. Huge crowds that can amount to 100.000 or more people, congregate to watch these processions.
Last year, my wife and I were invited to watch “la madrugá” from a balcony at some friends and we sat there from midnight to 9 am absolutely overwhelmed and amazed by the most impressive manifestation of faith and religious zeal of all the people gathered in the street who spend as much time as we did but standing, unyielding to fatigue.
More often than not, a number of penitentes, carrying wooden crosses, making public penance, follow the “pasos”. They wear the habit and the hood of the brotherhood, but the hood is not pointed.
Musical accompaniment varies with the character of the brotherhood. Some processions are silent, with no musical accompaniment, some have a cappella choirs or wind quartets, but many (and especially those historically associated with poorer neighbourhoods) feature a drum and trumpet band behind the image of Christ and a brass band behind the virgin playing religious hymns or marchas from a standard repertoire. Those associated with the images of Christ are often funereal in nature, whilst those associated with the Virgin are more celebratory.
As each procession leaves its home church, (an event known as the salida), at its return (the entrada), and along the marching route, improvised flamenco-style songs may be offered by individuals in the crowd or from a balcony. These songs are generically called saetas (arrows) and they are sung with a considerable amount of feeling and emotion.
The traditional suit worn by women on Maundy Thursday (and sometimes on Good Friday) is known as La Mantilla (the mantle). This custom has become revitalised since the 1980s. The outfit consists of a rich lace mantle, stiffened by back comb made of shell or another material, and a black dress, usually long, with black shoes. Jewellery often features, and may include, rosaries, bracelets and earrings.
The traditional accompanying male dress is a dark suit, black necktie and shoes.
Our socialist government is, of course, not very keen on these religious manifestations of the Spanish people. But they cannot do anything at all lest of provoking another civil war!
It is true that Catholicism is losing ground, particularly with the younger crowd, but there are still more than half of the population (~20/25 million) who still consider ourselves as catholic although not all of us are as good as we should. But keep on trying...:):)
