All right so I am working on this car for a friend of mine, I am new to Hondas. But there is no spark. The distributor was replaced a couple months ago. The check engine light comes on and goes off like normal. I hear the fuel pump turn on and off. I checked the voltage from the map sensor connector and it shows 5.02 volts. For the life of me I can't figure out why there is no spark. I don't want to have to throw a lot of money in his car. Is there any other tests I can do to help figure it out?

Thanks,
Matt

. Test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Pay particular attention to the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, located in the SRS block of the underdash fuse box.

. Do you hear the main relay click and the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

If the problem persists, there may be a problem with the distributor. We have had many problems on this site with new aftermarket distributors. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine.

I have checked all the fuses both under the dash and in the engine bay. All seem all right, the cover for both of them are gone so I am not sure if a fuse itself might be missing, I don't have any idea what should be in there to start. I hear the relay click when the ignition is on and the fuel pump turns on. Is there a way to check the current to the coil or coming off the coil itself? Than I would know if the distributor is bad?

Thanks,
Matt

With aftermarket distributors for Hondas, the problem often resides with the CKP, CYL, and TDC sensors being bad. These items are unserviceable.

Based on what you are reporting, I suspect that there's a problem with the distributor.

Is there a way to test the distributor? I would rather not just assume it's that and spend money on it. (Seeing how money is tight everywhere right now)

Thanks,
Matt

If you want, test the ICM at AutoZone and keep your fingers crossed that it's the problem.

Normally, I would suggest replacing the ICM and coil, if you had no reason to suspect the distributor housing was bad.

I know of no way to test the distributor housing itself. Many people try substituting another distributor.

All right so its been a little bit of time. I got another Dist on the car and it still won't start. Someone else was saying it might be a fuel problem. Any ideas? Should I try to pull the codes? I looked for a list of codes but I can't find any? Also how do I pull them? I know I need to jump something, but I am not sure on what.

Thanks,
Matt

These links should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post832012


https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-18139.html

I am not getting a code. When I tried the light just stays on, Is this a bad ECU now? And I need to look at replacing it?

Does the CEL really come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

When the connector is jumped it just stays on forever. When its not jumped it turns off after 2 seconds.

The ECM is likely okay. What brand is the replacement distributor? Is it new?

Have you cleaned the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing?

Craigslist. I got it from a "honda" guy from around here. When I first put it on it sounded like it was going to start. Further than I have gotten before. I have also taken starting fluid and sprayed it into the TB and that does not do anything. So I might not be getting spark again also. The Dist. came off a car that was running before he was swapping out a engine. So I am pretty sure it works, but my with my luck it might be back. That's why I was thinking the ECU from the light staying on. In one of the links you gave me if I got no code it was a bad ECU and to replace it.

I cleaned it to do the K test about a month ago.

Quote:

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In one of the links you gave me if I got no code it was a bad ECU and to replace it.

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Refresh my memory of which one you read.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-18139.html


This is the one.

That was from Crocivic91. It's referring to the CEL staying on when the ignition switch is turned to ON. That's not your situation.

Therefore, I'm back to suspecting there's something funky with even the replacement distributor. If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, you can pretty much be sure that the ECM is fine. Since that's your situation, I'm very confident that the lack of spark is distributor-related. Even though I'm not a fan of bench testing ignitors and coils, you might want to take your ignitor to AutoZone and have it tested. Otherwise, I don't know what else to advise--other than installing a genuine Honda distributor housing.