Hello,

I am trying desperately to remove my toilet's water delivery valve (coming out of wall), but have had no luck. I am not sure if it is soldered to the main line, or just really really rusted up...

Could someone please please give me some tips or a picture of tools that I need to remove this line?

Below are a couple pictures. The delivery pipe that goes into the toilet's tank is the older spiral type line, that breaks and leaks after it is bent too many times, as you can see from the first picture.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/HPIM0995.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/HPIM0996.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...c/HPIM0998.jpg

My main water line has been shut off all day to fix this problem, and I'm really stuck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

First shut all the water there. The metal flat ring needs preyed out and cut that with tin snips. You can put a split trim ring on later. Expose that right angle shutoff valve to see if its threaded or sweated on. That will let yo know if you can wrench it of or it's a solder joint
It looks soldered to me form the pic.

Do you know how to solder pipe?

Signed 21 Boat

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I think Boat nailed it. The anglestop looks soldered in to me. You will need soldering skills and the tools to solder with. The system will have to be drained down and all the water evactuated before the angle stop can be removed. If you are not comfortable with this you might wish to consider calling in outside help. Good luck, Tom

Yes I believe you both are correct...

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...M1004Large.jpg

How can I remove the angle stop if it is soldered? Use a dremel or saw?

Afraid the delivery line is already so close to the wall that if I saw any off, there won't be any room left to solder another angle pipe on there :(

No you need the length. You may need a plumber so as not to burn the house down. You need a propane torch/solder/flux/sandpaperIf you want to attempt this yourself I will guide you here.

Remove insulation in that area. In place of that wet a sock down and shove the in and around that pipe flush to the wall. Now use that trim ring for a heat shield.

Take a pair of pliers or a vice grip and grab the front of the valve.

Get a non flammable cover to protect the floor. Also have ready a small bucket of water.

Now apply heat while pulling and wiggling the valve. Don't over heat the fitting. You want just enough heat to liquidfie the solder. When it liquefie wiggle the fitting off. Sometimes it takes a tap on the vice grips to wiggle it off. Again watch the heat here. Have the torch parallel to the wall and a bit pointing towards you. After it come off dunk the hot valve in the water bucket. Now the pipe is still hot. Put heat to it on and off to get solder in a liquid state and (torch away) wipe old solder form pipe smooth with dry rag away from the wall. There will still be solder there but a small amount.

There must ne now water in the line to solder it off or on. Open old valve drain line and heat it ogg.

Sand paper the pipe and the solder end. Clean it up good. Test with knew fitting to go on. Flux the pipe, Clean the new fitting on the inside that goes on that pipe and flux. Open up the stop all the way. Now Apply heat on and sweat it on. Re wet sock before re solder.

The wet sock keep the solder joint in the wall cool so it doesn't also liquidfy while soldering off and on the knew fitting.

If this is to scary for you call a plumber. The bucket on hand with water in it to douse the old fitting can be an emergency fire extinguisher.


Signed 21 Boat

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If, and only if, you have soldering skills, you can unsolder the joint, clean it up and put on a compression stop. Or resolder on a new sweat valve.

One other option(depends on how much room you have in the wall before fitting in the wall. If you don't want to solder, then you can cut the copper pipe as close to the stop as possible with a hacksaw or sawzall(metal blade). Then get a 1/2 inch sharkbite coupling, push it onto the copper line coming out of wall. Then get a 5/8 compression X 3/8 compression angle stop and two inches of 1/2 inch copper. Put the copper piece into the compression stop and tighten it. Then push the other end of the copper into the sharkbite fitting. Then get a stainless flexable toilet(closet), and hook it up. Please let me know if you would like me to clarify. Hope this helps.

The rusted ncover plate must be cut out and all the water evacuated from the pipes.
This will expose the solder joint and the old valve body can be heated and removed.
I wouldn't try to cut it as the job's tight already. Note: Directly after you pull the old valve body off, take a rag and wipe the end of the pipe clean of solder. This will leave it tinned for the next angle stop and remove any excess solder. I posted at the same time as Boat. Follow his good advice. Good luck, Tom

I agree its to tight and loose that length and something goes wrong here on a compression fitting and now its tear out some wall. That's why I felt soldering here would be the best option

Again Nugen... Use the trim ring for the heat shield or call a plumber if you have any doubts on this. We don't want you to burn up you and the house.

Signed 21 Boat

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

If, and only if, you have soldering skills, you can unsolder the joint, clean it up and put on a compression stop. or resolder on a new sweat valve.

One other option(depends on how much room you have in the wall before fitting in the wall. If you dont want to solder, then you can cut the copper pipe as close to the stop as possible with a hacksaw or sawzall(metal blade). Then get a 1/2 inch sharkbite coupling, push it onto the copper line coming out of wall. then get a 5/8 compression X 3/8 compression angle stop and two inches of 1/2 inch copper. Put the copper piece into the compression stop and tighten it. then push the other end of the copper into the sharkbite fitting. Then get a stainless flexable toilet(closet), and hook it up. Please let me know if you would like me to clarify. Hope this helps.

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This is awesome advice... I took my chances and went with what you mentioned here as I didn't feel too comfortable burning down my house ;) (yes, I did YouTube a copper soldering video).

I was able to find a compression valve fitting to attach to the copper pipe from the wall (used a hacksaw to cut off the old valve fitting). Used the flexible stainless delivery pipe to my tank, and no leaks yet so far (it's been about two hours). Please pray for me tonight as I hope it doesn't start to leak :):)

While I was at home depot I picked up new tank attachment bolts and rubber grommets (old ones were completely rusted inside my tank). Also replaced out valve and flapper units inside the tank as well..

Again, fingers still crossed cause everything went smoother then expected :D

Thank you all for all your inputs and help

Ill say the plumbers prayer for you, but if it didn't leak right away, I believe you are good to go. Just glad you got it fixed. Good job, and have a great night.

My post is probably too late to advise you in your situation - but just FYI: they also sell Push-In angles stops made by BrassCraft. They now sell them in Home Depot. You just push them over the pipe and that's all. No soldering...

And btw: the old angle stop of yours with corrugated water supply attached to it - it is the worst set up you can have !

Milo, I just saw these about a month ago, they are awesome, don't even need the sharkbite tool to remove them, just use your hands. Im betting we will see more and more of these stops being used in the trade.

See the pictures below what Milo and Lee are talking about, Thanks.

John

Thanks for the tip Milo, and the picture afaroo!

I'll definitely take a more careful look next time I'm at home depot for the push-in angle stop.