Ask Me Help Desk - Ejector Sewuage Pump For Basement toilet

Discription of Setup:
I think toilets use 3 inch PVC pipe which I will have to cut concrete for and run into the 25inch by 30inch deep plastice container (container mostly under ground), one 2inch pvc line to outside air, the other will connect dirrectly to a CHECK valve and then another 8 feet of PVC pipe up and then turn horizontal and slope down to the main sewuage line... just a discription of what I see so far.

Question 1: Brand of PUMP?
I went to home depot looking for a pump that I can put in the basement for a toilet, shower, and kitchen sink, but the one at Homedepot only has a two year warrenttee, I REALLY Don't WANT TO HAVE to open that 25inch round diameter (30inch deep) canister and replace the pump every 2-3 years!! Are there any better ones I can buy with a 10 year warrenttee at least??

Question 2: SLOPE of PIPE to Main Line Out
Also, what is the recommended slope of the pipe where it turns into gravity flow into the main line? I will have to pump up around 10 feet and then horizontally 13 feet over at some slope??

Question 3: P-Valves??
What are P valves at shower and sinks?

Question 4: SLOPE of PIPE From Toilet to Ejector Pump
How much of a slope do I need from toilet to ejector pump (aka sump pump? I think)?

Question 5: Is a MACERATING Pump needed even though we are using 2inch pipe?
Does anyone recommend a MACERATING pump even though I'm using a 2 inch PVC pipe from the ejector pump to main sewuage line out?

Question 6: Did I leave anything out?

Thanks in Advance... :confused::eek::confused:

1. Buy Zoeller M267 sewer ejector pump. In my area of operation , they are considered the best. We never have any problem with them. However, just like everything else, it will go one day... I don't know about 10 year warranty. Check their web site at Zoeller Corporation

2. Slope for 3" pipe should be 1/4" per foot

3. I think here you refer to P-trap, not P valve. It is the J-bend pipe called P-trap that disallows sewer gases to enter your house.

4. Again, slope is 1/4" per foot for 3" pipe. It is 1/8" per foot for 4" sewer pipe.

5. I am not sure I understand your question here. If you are using 2" Zoeller M267 sewer ejector pump - than you don't need any other device to process and/or discharge the sewage. Zoeller pump will do all the work itself.

[QUOTE=Milo Dolezal;1611391]1. Buy Zoeller M267 sewer ejector pump. In my area of operation , they are considered the best. We never have any problem with them. However, just like everything else, it will go one day... I don't know about 10 year warranty. Check their web site at Zoeller Corporation

Thanks, but how long (average) do you see these pumps lasting?

Also, what check valve do you recommend?

Thanks

If you service them properly, clean the pit every year, and are careful what you flush down the toilet, they will last those 10 years, no problem.

Zoeller also makes Cast Iron check valves that goes with this pump.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

If you service them properly, clean the pit every year, and are careful what you flush down the toilet, they will last those 10 years, no problem.

Zoeller also makes Cast Iron check valves that goes with this pump.

Question 1:
Can you list how you clean the pit and service them properly?

Question 2:
To clean the pit, do you buy a second pump to remove everything or is it always empty by default?

Question 3:
Does the Zoeller have the hole already drilled in the cast iron check valve that I see some on this board discuss?

1. No matter what pump you use in your sewer ejector, you will have to maintain the pit. Our service includes removal of pump, cleaning pump with clean water, removing all liquids from pit, removing solids that accumulate on the bottom of the pit, and reinstalling pump. We than put hose inside the pit and let it run so pump goes through several cycles.

2. We carry small pump with long discharge hose with us for this purpose

3. You have to drill the hole yourself. You simply take 3/8" drill bit and drill hole in the first few inches of discharge pipe - but below check valve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

1. No matter what pump you use in your sewer ejector, you will have to maintain the pit. Our service includes removal of pump, cleaning pump with clean water, removing all liquids from pit, removing solids that accumulate on the bottom of the pit, and reinstalling pump. We than put hose inside the pit and let it run so pump goes through several cycles.

2. We carry small pump with long discharge hose with us for this purpose

3. You have to drill the hole yourself. You simply take 3/8" drill bit and drill hole in the first few inches of discharge pipe - but below check valve.

Wait you pull the entire container out of the ground? How is that accomplished when the PVC pipe is connected? Do you cut them and replace/reconnect new ones? PVC is rigid and not flexible? Is there a flexible material one can use instead if you have to cut this items to pull out the container?

Sewer Ejector has a split lid. You unscrew the lid, lift it up. There you gain access to the pump. Now it depends how it is plumbed. Sometimes we cut the 2" ABS/PVC, do our work, reinstall and glue together using coupling. In other cases, there is a Shielded coupling above the lid. We unscrew the coupling, remove lid, do our work, and reinstall. Therefore, you don't pull out entire container. You don't use flex PVC. You use rigid pipe.