Hi:

I am going to try (first-ever attempt) to replace my top-mount compression faucet (4" Centerset) in the bathroom sink. Anybody have a good set of instructions and/or tips?

I have already sprayed WD-40 to the lock nuts under the sink since they are extremely rusted... planning on keeping this overnight so the oil eats into the rust.

Also, I am headed out to buy the new faucet and a basin wrench (since I don't have enough space to use pliers). I have silicone caulk and a set of screwdrivers. These are the instructions I have found so far: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...RepFaucet.html

Am I all set? BTW, I won't be replacing the supply lines. Also, I have no idea about the model of my current faucet. I have just measured the dimensions and plan to buy any faucet I like. That's okay, right?

Thanks,
KK

Hi KK,

Most lavatory centers are 4" as are most replacement faucets. No problem.
The nuts on the end of the supplies that you unscrewed from the old faucet will fit the new one so no problem there either.
You will also need a pair of pliers in addition to the tools you described.
I can't add anything to Lowe's instructions except to add that if you run into anything that's not covered give me a shout and I'll try to help. Good luck, Tom

Thanks, Tom. If the lock nuts won't come off despite WD-40 being sprayed, what else can I use?

Regards,
KK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kutra

Thanks, Tom. If the lock nuts won't come off despite WD-40 being sprayed, what else can I use?

Regards,
KK

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Dontcha just hate it when that happens? First I try to break the nut free by tapping it with a long chisel and trying it with my basin wrench to see if it loosened. If that don't work I take a hacksaw blade, wrap some tape around it for a handle and cut that sucker out. All you need to do is make a cut through one side and you can peel it off. Good luck, Tom

Thanks, Tom.

Fortunately, the coupling nuts came off easily thanks to WD-40. The lock nuts were a problem, but since they were plastic, I just hammered them till they broke!

The new compression faucet installed easily with one small issue. The length of the pipes attached to the new faucet is longer than what my old faucet used to have. Thus, my chromed copper supply lines are long for the new faucet. For now, I have attached the new faucet to the supply lines, but very obviously, the faucet base is not flush with the sink and jutting higher. I have two options:
1. Saw off the extra length of the pipes attached to the new faucet.
2. Replace the chromed copper supply lines with flexible hoses.

I am leaning towards #2 since I anyway need to replace my angle valve. And also because cutting anything scares the he** out of me. What are your thoughts? Can you recommend a flexible hose... plastic or stainless steel braided? How do I go about selecting one?

And one more thing: The center hole in the sink that takes in the pop-up drain assembly plunger is a little off for the new faucet. Is there any easy way to make the sink hole bigger?

Thanks.
KK

If the faucet is only a inch or so high I put a "S" bend in the supplies to take up the slack. If that doesn't suit you the do with door #2.

"Can you recommend a flexible hose.?" Any flex line will do. Why are you replacing the angle stop?
"And one more thing: The center hole in the sink that takes in the pop-up drain assembly plunger is a little off for the new faucet. Is there any easy way to make the sink hole bigger?"
No, it would hurt the lavatory to try. All 4" faucets should line up with the center hole in the lav.
Good luck, Tom

Why are you replacing the angle stop?

- In reply to my post Shut-off valve not working, you replied that probably the washer has disintegrated so I would need to replace the angle stop.

Regards,
KK