My car runs fine, but every so often, it cuts out gives an engine light and loses maybe a little or maybe almost all power, and cycling the key once makes it run fine again. Ecm flashed hello but no code, so there is no code or it didn't store it it sounds like. Any ideas?

From your description, it sounds like you could have a bad ignition switch.

It has been doing it for 2 years, but now a little more frequent, and I forgot to mention it did it 2 times real close together yesterday, I deliver pizza, and shortly after I took off from a corner and it bogged but didn't throw engine light, so I came home and got my van, and haven't drove it yet today

Does the dash sometimes go dark when it dies--no warning lights, no electrical?

Do all of the gauges go dark when in the ON position but if held between the on and start position they light up?

Car runs fine when key slightly held at start position?

If it's not the ignition switch, then it's likely the main relay.

No the car never dies, it just won't accelerate as well, nothing ever happens with the gauges/lighting system or anything else

Based on what you just said, I would suspect the main relay. Let's see if others agree.

If u tell me where its located I can check it out

On your Civic, it's probably located in the same position as shown on the CRX diagram:

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/index....ent=hondarelay

In this order on Hondas, most major electrical problems are caused by main relays, igniters, coils, and ECMs. If I were you, I would replace your igniter, coil, and main relay, just because of the age of your Civic. I would also replace your plugs with new NGKs, if they have more than 20,000 miles on them.

I never have actually "fixed" a fuel injected gasoline successfully or worked on them very much at all, so I don't no much about them; which one is the igniter

The igniter (ICM), along with the coil, are inside the distributor. Igniters are about 1.75" x 1.25" with 4 male connectors on them. Remove the old igniter and coat the back of the new igniter with silicone dielectric grease and mount to the old heat sink. Also, coat the 4 connectors with dielectric grease and replace wire-for-wire. Pretty straight forward operation.