My 95 civic died mysteriously the other day. The coil appears to be bad. I replaced the coil, and still no spark.

I tried to check trouble codes, but when the 2-pin green connector is shorted, and key turned on, the check engine light comes on and stays on always.. . Then the SRS light starts flashing steadily, no pauses... I have no idea how to interpret this result. Un-shorting the check connector causes the check engine light to go out (As expected)... Please help!

Thanks!

. When you try and start your car, does your car crank?

. When you turn the ignition ON, do you hear the fuel pump run and does the Check Engine Light go out after 2 seconds?

Thanks for your quick response. Yes, the car cranks... Fuel pump is functioning fine, and yes I checked for fuel pressure by slightly loosening the fuel filter banjo bolt to see if fuel comes out (and yes I re-tightened it :)).

Let me explain the issue in a little more detail:
The battery is new. This issue occurred with no warning, while I was driving the car to work one morning. I turned a corner, removed my foot from the throttle to slow down, and when I put my foot back on, the engine did not respond. I coasted to a parking spot, and started checking things out. The timing belt is good, as the distributor still turns when cranking the motor. After removing the distributor cap/rotor/dust cover, I noticed that the original coil pack was bubbling up in the middle and the plastic had split. It was hot enough to burn my finger (hence, my realization that the plastic was melting!). I got a new coil, and installed it. The (new) coil and (original equipment) igniter module pass all tests noted in the Haynes repair manual. (i.e. voltage is present, new coil shows proper resistances, and the igniter has power and demonstrates the correct resistance between the white/blue and blue wire terminals). Yet, no spark is produced when cranking the engine.

So, I went on to check the ECU codes. (No eheck engine light came on until after the car stalled.) When checking the ECU codes, the check engine light comes on constantly and the SRS indicator flashes at approximately 1Hz. Removing the short from the diagnostic connector causes both the check engine light and SRS indicator to go out.

Turning the key on without the diagnostic connector shorted results in the check engine light and SRS light coming on for about 2 seconds, then off (as is normal for this car)...

My question in this case ultimately comes down to... what does it mean for the CE light to stay on solid, while the SRS light flashes when the diagnostic connector is shorted to read out trouble coeds? The book says a "0" is a ECU failure code... But what, exactly, constitutes a "0"? No flashes (always off), or always on? I can find no definition as to what the behavior I'm seeing means.

Step 1. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses?
Step 2. Try and determine the codes your car is throwing. The flashing SRS light is how your model communicates this information to you. Count the flashes.
Step 3. When you disconnect the MAP sensor connector from the MAP sensor and then turn the ignition ON, do you have 5 volts going between the MAP sensor connector reference wire (right female connector) and ground? Press negative terminal of your DMM firmly into the G101 main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. Tell me your reading.
Step 4. Check for spark at the coil, not just at the plugs.
Step 5. If Steps 1 through 4 don't pinpoint anything, then I would take your igniter to Autozone and have them test it. They will do this for nothing. Your ICM could be breaking down when it gets hot and they can test for that. Personally, I would replace it, due to the age of your Civic and the fact that they are very problematic. I guess I suspect your igniter, at this point.

Most of these situations come down to main relay, igniter, or ECM. You indicate the main relay seems to be working normally. Step 3 will give us a good indication of whether your ECM is good. Since the CEL goes out on its own after 2 seconds and the fuel pump runs, I'm inclined to suspect your igniter.

Supra661, did you ever fix this problem? I have the same problem with my civic and trying to fix it also.

Hi. Yes I did get my civic running again, but no I still have not figured out why the ECU is not showing any trouble codes... I am considering purchasing a used one from eBay, just to see if the stock ECU is really malfunctioning by not giving any codes...

As to my car not running, it turned out that the igniter blew out, and took the coil with it by presenting an always on current to the coil and overheating/melting it... I bought a remanufactured complete distributor from eBay (Just do a search for it on there, they will have several out there.)... The entre distributor was $139.00 with 2 day shipping, complete and ready to install. I took about 15 minutes to drop in the new one, and started right up... Do make sure to set the base timing with a light though... It will be different with the new distrib...

Good luck!

Hi supra661, thanks for replying. I decided to change the igniter and waiting for the part to arrive. Hopefully, it will fix the problem.

I looked on eBay, but I couldn't find a remanufactured distributor for a vtec engine so I ordered the igniter.

Did you check your obd1 again to see if it gives you a code? I think it should be OK now since you fixed the problem.

Anyway, thanks for your help.
Dean

I have a 94 Civic which died as I was driving. I put a timing light on and determined there was no spark. I checked the ignition control module and the coil and all measurements were within the specs as outlined in the Haynes manual.

I shorted the brown and black wires on the diagnostic connector next to the ECU and the check engine light stayed on and the SRS indicator flashed at approximately 1Hz.

I was able to get the car running by replacing the distributor. Can anyone tell me how to get the Engine Check Light to display the Error Codes?

Thanks in advance for any input anyone has concerning the ECU and Error Codes!