I posted this question in someone else's thread who was inquiring about leveling their floor, but didn't get a response that was for my particular case therefore, I'm starting my own thread with hopes of getting some help (which I truly appreciate by the way :)) I want to redo our kitchen floor and install a laminate artificial looking hardwood floor. The kitchen floor currently has cushion floor on it. I would like to know what the best way is to level the 'top' of the floor, because going to the basement and jacking joists isn't an option. The problem with my kitchen floor is that every 4th floor joist is a bit higher than the ones on the middle, causing a bow, or dip between the staggered higher joists (anywhere from 1/2" to 5/8 +")
So how to I "even" up the floor to allow me to safely install the laminate ? The house was built in the mid 70's and joists are "rough" 2"x 8" which is a "true 2"x 8", and they are 12" center. We have always complained about the low bow in our kitchen since the day the we moved in after the contractor built it. Our kitchen is 13' x 13', and the low spot in the kitchen is about 5 feet wide x the length.
Ok, so the guy at the hardware store suggested I pour the self leveling wet concoction between the high joists (where the floor is at it's lowest) but he didn't say anything about it eventually cracking, which is what I read on the other thread. This is something I agree, could cause problems down the road if the self leveling compound were to crumble down the road. Would I be better to shim extra layers of underlay foam to the recessed areas, or is there another substance or material I could us for the job? I know I could rip the plywood off the floor and sister up some 2 x 8's to the existing joists, but that would a bigger project than I'm willing to do, unless absolutely necessary.
Any idea's on how to go about this if it were you ? :confused:
Thanks for any info you can give me. :)

There is a concrete patch that's made just for your problem. It a " henery" product. Get the one that you need to add the lacerate to it. It a bit pricey but its designed to level wood or concrete floors and will stick and not crack. Can be feathered. I use a belt sander to clean and ruff up the floor. This gets past any sealers that may be there. Its tough stuff. Again use the addtive.

Lowe's I believe has it look in the tile section.

http://www.wwhenry.com/prod-547.htm

I use it on our re hap job sites.

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Thanks 21Boat, I've made note of the stuff. What is lacerate though ?

Laticrete gives mortar based product some elasticity. The mortar can expand and contract more without cracking. In the trades we call it milk. Simply because it looks like milk. The henry 547 will tell you you can mix water or laticrete but not both combined.
The laticrete gives the advantage to feather better and not crack.

WikiAnswers - What is laticrete

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Thanks again Boat. Does the lacerate come in a can and already mixed, or is it a powder like the Henery leveler ? I just want to know what format to look for.
So now I have to make a decision, on whether to use the Henery self leveling product, or use roofing shingles and #30 roofing paper which can act as a bridge in the lower portion of the floor and could level the floor enough to install the underlay and floating floor. Like I mentioned, there is about a 4 or 5 foot span that needs to be raised up around 5/8", the length of the kitchen (13 feet). However, the Henery solution would probably be less time consuming. I'll get back to you on what I've decided once the job is done in April. Thank you very much for the valuable info Boat, I'll definitely keep it in mind.
Ray

On the job sites we have that there is a big dip to fill I use diff ply thickness to build up the dip. Keep in mind the main objective is get the floor Flat... Simply because many buildings are not.

Use the underlayment nails to nail sheets. It takes a lot of nails. Got to keep the squeaks out.

Plywood Underlayment: Halex Underlayment: Nailing Pattern

Get diff thickness of ply and step build it up. Use a small amount to feather from one step of ply to another. NO shingles.

In your situation I would get a piece of 1/2 ply to start. Then string line the floor to figure out how wide and long to cut it. Next use a piece of 3/8 ply around the edges of the 1/2" The use a piece of 1/4 luan to go around the 3/8. Now you can mix up the "Henry" and mud in the transitions from stepped ply. The reason I said start with 1/2 instead of 5/8 / Is because even though the deepest part of your dip is 5/8/ it most likely will be such a small piece since the floor raises up quickly. If its real quick start out with 3/8 then to 1/4. Left over 1/4 could used for in the center to make up for the total 5/8.

The 'Milk" laticrete for the 'Henry powder mix is in a bottle. Its liquid. Look for 1 gal bottle. It will have directions to match the " Henry" unipro 547 All of this should be in the tile section of a big box. Simply because its used a lot for tile prep on floors to level it out.

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Understood, I'll give what you suggest a try. Thanks again, once I'm done, I'll repost the results.
Ray

Follow instructions well and all will end well. Don't forget to belt sand the spots you will coat to get past deep dirt and sealer. I shop vac after that and light damp sponge after that let dry and coat.

There is a limited time to work the coating it sets quick. Measure closely.

I feel you will be happy with the product its tough/ sticks and holds

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raymonator58

Understood, I'll give what you suggest a try. Thanks again, once I'm done, I'll repost the results.
Ray

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How did this turn out? I'm in the same boat.. I have a 1/2 inch valley in my bedroom and am trying to flatten it out for a laminate floor. 5 foot wide and 10 feet long.

I have built up the floor using layers of osb 1/2 inch stepped down to 1/4
I want to use a SLC to feather the edges but someone told me this will end up cracking.

Any advise?