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-   -   Going from 220v to 110v (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=324147)

  • Mar 2, 2009, 06:07 PM
    3pawnguys
    Going from 220v to 110v
    Exterior lighting.. i have 220v running my parking lot lights.. there is a small fixture running the light to a monument (sign). Someone broke this light and when it was replaced it was with a 110v unit. It keeps blowing the light.. i tested it and it is 220v to the monument. There is a blk/wht and ground from the light poles. Can the line be split to make it 110v to the monument.. if so how?
  • Mar 2, 2009, 06:24 PM
    Stratmando

    Would probably be easier, cheaper, and faster to remain at 240 volts, or change all to 120 volts.
    I would stay at 240 Volts.
  • Mar 2, 2009, 08:08 PM
    KISS

    A lot of signs are fluorescent lights and universal ballasts are available. If there are 120 V standard bulbs, they may be able to be put in series in pairs.

    A transformer can be used. What's the wattage?

    Need to know a lot more information.
  • Mar 3, 2009, 05:32 AM
    patcolamp
    One of two things can be done to remedy your problem.

    1. If your fixture is HID, being Metal Halide or High Pressure Sodium, you can get a fixture that has four taps on it. The trade name is multi tap or quad tap. This will handle 120-208-240-277v. You will use the tap of 240v for your application.

    2. I you currently have 240v you will have 2 blacks and a ground wire. You can simply take one leg of your hot and use your ground for your neutral wire and get your 120v that you need for your sign light. Even if you run another neutral line, your neutral and your ground wire are bonded together so you are fine.

    Please keep in mind that if you are using a HID light with straight 120v with no capacitor in it you will actually burn twice the electric as opposed to a multi tap ballast.

    Straight 120v is NPF/Normal Power Factor
    Multi Tap is HPF/High Power Factor

    I hope this helps you out.

    JP
    Patco Lamp

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