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-   -   Broken 1.5" galvanized drain in concrete (photos) (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=320802)

  • Feb 22, 2009, 08:21 PM
    diynick
    Broken 1.5" galvanized drain in concrete (photos)
    Hi There,

    We've been upgrading our plumbing, and we accidentally broke a galvanized steel pipe off in the concrete floor. This drain is in the laundry room an is used by the washing machine, and a sink.

    Do I need to Jackhammer up the surrounding area? And if so how much do I need to remove. We're using ABS above, should we use a coupling once we have enough galvanized pipe to grab?

    Here are the photos, thanks for your time!

    Nick

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/...a8f9992be8.jpg

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/...b7225e.jpg?v=0
  • Feb 22, 2009, 08:43 PM
    generalservices
    Depending on your local code... you can use a hammer and chisle to remove enough concrete to use a "Fernco" coupler (aval at home improv. Stores). They come in different sizes and you want to get one that fits your metal pipe on one end and your ABS on the other. Don't forget to put in a clean out 'Y' and tighten the clamps.
  • Feb 22, 2009, 08:47 PM
    KISS

    Actually, that looks like cast iron. Galvanized would not fracture that cleanly.
  • Feb 22, 2009, 09:02 PM
    KISS

    Example:

    Fernco No Hub Coupling, fernco, fernco no hub coupling, fernco coupling, fernco couplings, No Hub Connect Coupling, No Hub Flexible Coupling, No Hub Shielded Coupling | Fernco

    You can use an offset screwdriver to tighten.

    That pipe won't take impacts well, so I'd be really careful.

    I have no idea if a core drill would help of not. Amazon.com: 4" Concrete Core Drill Z-Z80: Home Improvement
  • Feb 22, 2009, 09:32 PM
    Milo Dolezal

    Nick, it is a bad break, indeed. As other Experts suggested, you have to rent a chipping hammer and to remove enough concrete so you can slip on Shielded Coupling. Flex Seal will not do. Then, of course, you have to cut off that broken Y. If the gal-pipe is now short, you need to insert piece of pipe to fill-in the void after the Y.

    Now, can you tell us how it got broken ?
  • Feb 22, 2009, 09:56 PM
    diynick

    Thanks everyone, fantastic advice. This is what I suspected :( but now that I've come to terms with it, I'm in repair mode.

    Interesting, it probably is cast iron... I just assumed is was galvanized as all the other pipes were.

    Using a Shield coupling and chipping away at it carefully sounds like my best option. I was planning on putting in a new clean-out Y in ABS anyway (I'm putting them in above every drain).

    As to how I broke it... I had started two days ago with PB B'laster on the threads above the Y. It was pretty much rusted solid. I was 'lightly' tapping on the galvanized section when it fractured.
  • Feb 22, 2009, 10:01 PM
    Milo Dolezal

    Oooops !

    Start with the repair. If you need any help , drop by. Will guide you through !
  • Feb 22, 2009, 10:01 PM
    diynick
    ... Another question:

    Lets say I chip away an ~8"x8" square hole 4 inches deep around the pipe.

    Do fill the hole around the coupling with concrete?

    Thanks!
  • Feb 22, 2009, 10:06 PM
    Milo Dolezal

    Yes, fill in the hole with light-weight concrete.
  • Feb 22, 2009, 10:19 PM
    diynick

    Fantastic thank you!
  • Feb 23, 2009, 08:43 AM
    corrillo
    I wouls see if your local plumbing supply has what they call a husky clamp and put that on instead of a fernco ferncos do not hold up well in concrete being they are rubber the husky clamp has metal made for undergrond
  • Feb 23, 2009, 08:48 AM
    KISS

    There are various varieties of Fernco's. Fernco is a brand name. Check out Fernco Couplings, Flexible Couplings, Flexible Pipe Connectors, Fernco Fitting, Shielded Couplings, Fernco Donut, Pro-Flex Coupling, Large Diameter Couplings, Sewer, Drain, Waste, Plumbing Flexible Couplings, Plumbing Pipe Leak Repair | Fernco.
  • Feb 23, 2009, 09:33 AM
    speedball1
    Am I looking at the hub of a 2" piece of cast iron? If so, there's no need to chip out anything. Simply yarn and caulk in a piece of, cast iron, galvanized, copper ** or**
    If you use lead wool, caulk in a PVC raiser. Anyone find fault with that? Good luck, Tom
  • Feb 27, 2009, 10:46 PM
    diynick
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    Am I looking at the hub of a 2" piece of cast iron? If so, there's no need to chip out anything. Simply yarn and caulk in a piece of, cast iron, galvanized, copper ** or**
    if you use lead wool, caulk in a PVC raiser. Anyone find fault with that? Good luck, Tom

    Really? Could you break it down into layman's terms. What do you mean by "yarn" and what kind of Caulk?. thanks!

    Here's where I'm at with the chipping out the surrounding area... in case that's the best route...

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3622/...cb4919.jpg?v=0
    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3483/...5c7522.jpg?v=0
    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/...285ae3.jpg?v=0
    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3457/...60d7b0.jpg?v=0

    Is this enough lip to attach the fitting or should I carefully go down another 4 inches and cut this thicker (knuckle) section off?

    Thanks!
    Nick
  • Feb 27, 2009, 10:56 PM
    Milo Dolezal

    It should be enough. Insert the other pipe into it, tighten it up and kind of shake with it. If it feels solid, it is fine. If you'll notice noticeable weak spot in that coupling, dig deeper and cut off the hub.
  • Feb 28, 2009, 12:59 AM
    diynick

    Awesome. Thank you!

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