Hello all:

I want to get started installing aprox 6 electric outlets in my basement but still have a doubt about it.
After making the study of which would be the best route/circuit to use, I've found I can only use one, from two going to the basement: circuit having the garage door (and light), garage lights: flourescents and light bulb, garage outlet (rarely used), 2 outlets (bsmnt washroom being one).
The question is: would be too much for a circuit to hold all the described plus the 6 new outlets planned to install? Would power in new outlets be affected every time garage door is working? My garage door is 1/2HP.

The other circuit coming down to the basement seems to have a big load already (5 outlets in living and dinning, 1st floor wshroom light and outlet, 2 lights in rec room, 1 light in bsmt washroom, 1 outlet in utility room), so it is discarded.

Thanks,

In addition, I can say I am aware of the load every circuit must hold (120x20x80%, 120x15x80%), and number of devices recommended, but never heard about how a garage opener can affect performance of other devices according to how many the circuit holds. Thanks!

What is the amperage on the existing circuit (Breaker size)? What is the amperage draw of the garage door opener?

Nestordt,

You are not aware!

Power to "Continuous loads" < defined as an active load for 3 or more continuous hours> is derated by 80%. For example a water heater and lights.

As well as "Plugged loads"

Thanks Don. The breaker of the circuit holding garage door, garage lights, garage outlet, and basement washroom, is 15 amp. Such circuit has 5 devices (2 lights in garage).
I am familiar with alternate and continuous currents concepts but after being said by an electrician that W=VxAmp can be used as an aproximation, I sent my question out here to confirm it.
My garage opener is 1/2 HP, which after found formulas and equivalences would give me a 3.1 AMP (in electric motors 1 HP = 746 watts, then 1/2 HP = 373 watts. If watt= volt x amp --> 1/2 HP would give me 3.1 amp) PLEASE correct me if this formulas/equivalences are false.

Thanks again for the feedback.

It's unlikely you will have a problem... however... expect the lights to blink a bit when the opener operates... and if you happen to have a computer on a circuit with a motor you [I]will[I] have some issues down the line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by donf

Power to "Continuous loads" < defined as an active load for 3 or more continous hours> is derated by 80%. For example a water heater and lights.

As well as "Plugged loads"

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Just a quick correction.

A continuous load is one that is expected to be on for three hours or more.
Most residential lighting does not fit this description. In fact, not much in a home does.

Certain things though, like fixed electric heat or a water heater as Don mentioned, must also be considered "continuous loads".

I'm not sure what "plugged loads" are, but something being plugged in has no bearing on it being a continuous load.

If you are installing outlets, I am guessing walls and ceiling may be exposed, I would try to get its own or a conduit to one of the downstairs boxes for future,
Don't forget TV, Tel, Computer, Speakers, alarm, intercomm or other before walls go up, doen't get cheaper or easier than now, 3 way switching for lights?