So I solved one problem, water pressure by adjusting the pressure switches as numerous threads suggested. Problem is the pump won't shut off now.

Its my girlfriends place, it's a shallow well with a jet pump and bladder tank. The pressure gauge which is in line with the tank does not function (constant 20psi even when emptied) and no gauge was ever installed on the pump itself.

I did however get the pressure to where I wanted, obviously no definitive numbers since no gauge. But now the pump won't stop running. I couldn't figure it out by I noticed something about this setup that I had not noticed before; there are two control switches. One in line with the pressure tank and the other attached to the pump. The pump is now running with the pressure tank control switch in the on position, Contacts are made. The pump control switch has no contact made making me think the pump wouldn't be running the first place. Th only way for me to turn the pump off is at the breaker or manually switching the control switch at the tank off. I've provided pictures to make it more clear.

I was wondering if I could bypass the tank control switch all together and rewire the unit to run only at the pump control switch.

Thanks for any help.

Control switch at pressure tank
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0219091653.jpg

Control switch at pump
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...219091653a.jpg

Overall layout. Power schematic: Panel->Tank Switch->Pump Switch->Pump
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...219091653b.jpg

I'd like to add that the control switch in front of the tank is not connected to the tank in any way, I just used tank as a reference to its location. Also, that same switch only has one tall adjustment screw unlike the pump switch, I believe it also acts as a pressure cut out.

Congratulations, Mike. You have posted a completely new problem, at least as far as what I've seen on this site.

From your last picture, it appears your system is wired as follows. Line coming from the breaker through conduit goes to the "tank switch". Then, the line goes from that switch to the "pump switch". That switch is then wired to the pump. That is one switch too many. Personally, I would bypass the switch on the pump and just use the one on the tank.

Whatever you do, replace the pressure gauge! It sounds like you have jacked the cut off pressure up so high that the jet pump can't get to it and, thusly, runs constantly. Don't run your cut off pressure over 60#. Until you replace the gauge, you can check the pressure by using a tire gauge at the top of your tank.

Ha ha, thanks for the pick me up.

Upon further inspection I noticed more closely how the wiring was done. And, in fact, as you recommended the pump switch was already bypassed (manually contacted by whoever installed it) so the pump is switched on and off entirely by the tank switch.

Being the impatient man that I am I switched that entirely and bypassed the tank switch and ran off the pump switch. That did not work at all, no adjustment I made convinced the pump to turn on. (perhaps the reason for the secondary switch in the first place)

So, I switched it back to normal, unscrewed the tank switch control all the way (like ti was before all this) and now our pump shuts off but the pressure is pretty much back to normal, slightly higher because I inflated the air bladder which was originally completely deflated. I thought it might have been a leak but it seems to be holding pressure, my guess is that it was never inflated to begin with.

I filled it to 38 psi using a bicycle pump and a tire gauge. And a word to the unfamiliar, DO NOT pump an air bladder from 0 psi, it will destroy you. Took me a hour and a half of pumping. My elbow is dead.

Replacing the gauge is no problem, but then how do I set the cut in/out pressure on this switch with one control nut. The lid of the switch says turn the nut clockwise 1 turn to increase cut in/out pressure by 2 psi, that's all fine and dandy but it seems like I can't adjust the nut and lower than the way I found it without causing the continuous pumping.

I guess there's not much to do without that gauge though.

What happens if my air bladder pressurized higher then my cut in pressure. I ask because the control switch in question is a 30/50 and it seems as thought the pump can do over 50, yet I have my air bladder pressurized to 38 psi. Could this be causing some of my pressure issues?

Mike, you can actually do a lot without the pressure gauge working. By using a tire gauge at the top of the tank, you can read the current pressures at which the pump cuts on and cuts off. You've fiddled enough with the switch that it is probably no longer 30/50. When you find the cut off pressure, then set the pressure in your bladder by cutting off the system, draining the tank through a lower level faucet, then setting the bladder pressure to two pounds below the cut in pressure. So, if the pump cuts in at 35 pounds, you would set the bladder pressure to 33#. Once that's done, turn the system back on.

I can't see the images you posted on this computer. When I get home, I'll look again at the tank switch. They generally have two nuts, one large and the other somewhat smaller. Yours might only have one. I'll look when I get home, but if it's only one, then adjusting that nut will adjust both pressures (cutin and cutoff). It will generally maintain about a 20# gap between the two.

Back home where I can now see your images. Notice that the switch on the pump has the two nuts. The one on the tank only has one. The small nut allows you to adjust the cut off pressure only, thus adjusting the gap between the cuton and cutoff pressures.

You might want to simply replace the switch on the tank. They only cost about $25.00. You will need to be comfortable with electricity to do that. However, it is not necessary to do that unless you just want to.

This site will tell you a lot more.

http://www.inspect-ny.com/water/WaterPumpAdjust.htm

On the pump switch, the small nut adjusts the cut off pressure only (ie. The pressure at which the pump shuts off)? I thought it adjusted the cut in pressure ( i.e.. The pressure that turns the pump on)?

Please clarify that for me.

When I put my tire gauge to the tank when filled it reads about 50 psi, is that indicative of the actual water pressure?

On the pump switch, the small nut adjusts the cut off pressure only (ie. The pressure at which the pump shuts off)? I thought it adjusted the cut in pressure ( i.e.. The pressure that turns the pump on)?

Please clarify that for me.

When I put my tire gauge to the tank when filled it reads about 50 psi, is that indicative of the actual water pressure?

It adjusts cut off pressure up or down. If you will look inside the grey cover, it will address that there, if the label is still on.

Your tire gauge is reading system pressure, just as the pressure gauge would do. I have my cutoff at 60#. Many people go a little lower than that. The lower the cut off pressure, the less work the pump has to do and the longer, at least in theory, it will last.

I have a 1/2 HP jet pump for shallow well, it has a bladder tank that is attached to the top it has 1 line going down the well. I have replaced the pressure switch,the bladder tank air pressure reading is 28psi.MY pump still won't shut off and I have lots of water pressure when it is on but am afraid to leave it running too long,its an older pump but we have had no problems with it till we recently had to replace a few leaking pipes in the house and had to turn the power off to the pump.Now it won't shut off as I said I replaced the pressure switch and the bladder tank is fine.I have checked to see if there were any blockages but there are none.I'm water weary been working on this for 2 weekends now.Please help me.

Wendy

Quote:

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it has a bladder tank that is attached to the top

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Attached to the top of what?

First, set your system pressure with the large center nut of the switch. Turn the nut counter-clockwise a full turn and then let the pump cycle. Keep at it until you reach a point where the pump will cut off. You will, of course, want to turn off power when adjusting the switch.

Next. Let's get the bladder tank adjusted. Watch your pressure gauge with water running. See at what point the pump cuts on. Your tank pressure should be 2# BELOW that. So if, for example, your cut in pressure is 25#, then you would turn off power, drain the system of pressure by opening a low level faucet, and then set the tank pressure (with the air valve on top) to 23#. Then turn the power back on and see what you've got.

The bladder tank is attached to the top of the water pump. The switch that I put on is new and factory set at 30/50. The bladder tank is 28psi.I didn't think that I had to adjust a brand new switch when they told me at the shop not to mess with the settings on the switch.

Assuming you measured the 28 psi when the system was down and "empty", then your 28 is good. The bottom line is this: Your pump does not seem to be able to get up to 50 pounds. If that's the truth, then your only option for now is to lower the cut out point.

Concerning that tank, how large is it in gallons? Could you attach a pic of your pump/tank?