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-   -   Moving toilet over about 16 inches (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=318634)

  • Feb 17, 2009, 03:10 PM
    Ineedhelpplumbi
    Moving toilet over about 16 inches
    Hi I have attached some pictures, and was wondering if this is how I would go about moving a toilet. I have just recently graduated college and my parents let me stay in their rental house rent free so I want to remodel the bathroom before I move out. The current setup I have is right here,

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...t/DSCN3235.jpg

    I would like to move the toilet over closer to the tub and put a larger vanity to fill the space from (where the toilet is now, and to the right.).

    Here is a picture of the plumbing underneath now.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...t/DSCN3234.jpg

    I was wondering if I could relocate the water lines and do this to the plumbing.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...host/paint.jpg

    Hey I'm sorry if I didn't explain every thing very well, but if you understand could you please help. Also if I should be using galvanized instead of pvc let me know, and what grade pvc. Thanks
  • Feb 17, 2009, 06:59 PM
    ballengerb1

    Where do you live and which plumbing code is enfoced in your area?
  • Feb 17, 2009, 07:19 PM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    I live in Corvallis Oregon, is IAPMO the code? Here is the city page City of Corvallis Community Development Department
  • Feb 17, 2009, 08:18 PM
    Milo Dolezal
    1 Attachment(s)

    Cut it about 3" from the Sanitary T. Toss the old cast iron 90 Ell and old closet ring.

    Insert No-Hub Shielded coupling and proceed with ABS or PVC to rough in for new toilet location. ( street 45, short piece of 3" pipe, 90 ell pointing up, short piece of 3" pipe and closet ring ).

    Proceed as follows: take new closet ring and position it on the floor EXACTLY where we want it. Mark it. Than cut hole in the floor with sawzall. Proceed with inserting new closet ring into the hole. Attach it with 8 brass or zink-coated screws. THEN go under the house, and THEN cut the old pipe and AIM towards the new location with new ABS or PVC drain pipe. This way you will assure that the ring is exactly where it should be. Since it is screwed down, it won't move while you gluing pipes to it.

    Yes, sink drain can be run just as you drew it. Even though, I would probably run it as "dirt" arm through the wall. ( extending drain horizontally through the wall towards my new location ). Here, the call is yours.

    It is relatively easy, one man, job to do, especially if you "fit" in the crawl space with 4" grinder in your hand...

    Let us know how you are doing...
  • Feb 17, 2009, 08:51 PM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    Thanks so much for the replies, I can hopefully get this started in the next few weeks. I just want to plan every thing in advance so I go into this project knowing what I will be doing.

    OK so I have a few questions, and I appreciate you guys helping tremendously,
    1) As far as my plans for the drain of the sink, can I actually run it completely horizontal or "dirty" as you call it?

    2)and according to my plan, what kind of T would I put into the sink drain, It looks galvanized, so would I need to re thread for galvanized pipe?

    3) the drain for the toilet, you say to cut into the portion running parallel with the ground and insert the no hub shield coupling? I believe you, but wouldn't that run more of a risk of it leaking?

    4) I do have a regular 4 inch grinder, you just cut through cast with that, not a sawzall or anything else?

    Thank you so much for the help, an I will definitely keep you guys posted on the remodel.
  • Feb 17, 2009, 10:19 PM
    Milo Dolezal
    1 Attachment(s)

    1. You cut out the existing sanitary T ( the transition from horizontal to vertical ) at the sink. You insert new one, glue short piece of new plastic pipe to each end, insert it into the void and tighten it up. Of course, you will point the inlet towards new location. Drill through the studs and come out from the wall where the sink will be.

    2. 1 1/2" ABS or PVC Sanitary T. No threading gal pipe.

    3. No risk of leaks. The shielded coupling, tighten at 60 lbs of pressure, is designed for this application. You will need 9/16" socket wrench to tighten it up. See enclosed photo...

    4. Yes, you can purchase special sawzall blade that cuts through Cast Iron. Get two of them. Wear goggles and gloves. Or use grinder. In both cases, be very careful while cutting.
  • Feb 17, 2009, 10:37 PM
    Ineedhelpplumbi
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal View Post
    1. You cut out the existing sanitary T ( the transition from horizontal to vertical ) at the sink. You insert new one, glue short piece of new plastic pipe to each end, insert it into the void and tighten it up. Of course, you will point the inlet towards new location. Drill through the studs and come out from the wall where the sink will be.

    2. 1 1/2" ABS or PVC Sanitary T. No threading gal pipe.

    3. No risk of leaks. The shielded coupling, tighten at 60 lbs of pressure, is designed for this application. You will need 9/16" socket wrench to tighten it up. See enclosed photo...

    4. Yes, you can purchase special sawzall blade that cuts through Cast Iron. Get two of them. Wear goggles and gloves. Or use grinder. In both cases, be very careful while cutting.

    Ok I'm sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but I greatly appreciate it.

    1) can I use this instead of cutting , and using 2 couplings and a sanitary T?

    Product Information Error Page

    3) are the majority only 2 inches tall? That means my cuts are going to have to be pretty straight in that cramped space.

    Product Information Error Page

    And how do I tell what kind of pipes fit code for where I'm from? Do I need abs or pvc, and I noticed they sold different schedules?
  • Feb 18, 2009, 08:31 AM
    Milo Dolezal

    The links you've posted are dead...

    1. Anyway, you can use what ever tool you have to cut the pipe. Yes, you always want to make a straight cut.

    2. Both ABS and PVC should be fine with your Code. They are allowed all over country for residential applications. ABS for drains comes in one version. PVC has many versions (schedules). You want to get the one that is stamped with "DWV" and "Schedule 40 or 80". Ask salesman in store. He'll tell you which one is for sewer.
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:19 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    Hmm when I click on the link it works for me.. weired, but here is the whole site.

    Product Information Error Page

    I think I ready to tackle this project in the next week, let me know if I can use (what I posed above) and I think I'm set. Its kind of hard working around all the roommates though...
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:21 AM
    ballengerb1

    Well yes it does open but it says the product isn't available. You do see that the link says "Product Information Error Page" right?
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:22 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi
    You, I see that I think its because its java script, and I've opened it before on my browser.
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:26 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi
    OK I went to fernco's web site this is what I'm talking about, about halfway down,

    fernco, fernco couplings, fernco coupling, flexible pipe connectors, fernco fitting, flexible couplings | Fernco

    They call them "Qwik Tees & Ells" can I use this in place of the PVC Sanitary T. where I am going to be draining the sink?
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:26 AM
    ballengerb1

    Stick with Milo's advice, he's given you the right info.
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:26 AM
    Milo Dolezal

    Yes, it tells me "the product is no longer available"
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:29 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    You OK ill will stick with his advice but I ask because, when I was looking for Sanitary T those fenco products came up which I posted above. And said it makes easier installaction.
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:30 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi
    But thanks guys for all your help
  • Feb 18, 2009, 10:58 AM
    Milo Dolezal
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ineedhelpplumbi View Post
    ok i went to fernco's web site this is what im talking about,, about halfway down,

    fernco, fernco couplings, fernco coupling, flexible pipe connectors, fernco fitting, flexible couplings | Fernco

    they call them "Qwik Tees & Ells" can i use this in place of the PVC Sanitary T. where i am going to be draining the sink?
    No, you CANNOT use "quick T's". They flex too much. The only fitting you could use is coupling - but that's it. If you install that quick T - and have to use snake in the future - you will poke hole right through it.
  • Feb 18, 2009, 11:02 AM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    All right thanks for the quick responses guys, Im getting anxious to start, and you guys are awesome. And I will post pics of my work, and let you guys critique it :)
  • Apr 1, 2009, 10:00 PM
    Ineedhelpplumbi

    K sorry it took so long, but I am finally tackling this project, I knocked out the drawers on the side. I had a few quick question about my drain for the sink.

    1) I would run it "dirty" but the vent for the toilet covers the entire space between studs. So my question is since the toilet vent is in the way what is the best way to route my drain to the new location?

    2) when re-routing the drain, will the original vent be sufficient, and could I use a new abs sanitary t in the new spot and just cap the top?


    Thanks for the help, I used this information to remodel other bathroom. Here are some pic, and thanks again for all the help.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...st/Before1.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...ost/after4.jpg

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