I just ordered a replacement AC for my living room. The current unit is at least 19 years old. There is, what I believe is a 220 volt line which the AC is currently plugged into. The problem is, I'm not sure if the unit I ordered has the same type of plug.

If you go here:
http://www.frigidaire.com/images/doc...nditioners.pdf

On Page 12 near the bottom is a depiction of plug types. The plug I have looks like the (D) picture, but the unit I ordered (FAS186N2A) has the B type. Can I just change the plug in the outlet?

Also, the MSRP for this unit is $459

http://www.frigidaire.com/products/r...d_FAS186N2.asp

But the store price was almost $200 more. I've shopped at this store before and their prices are normally pretty good so I was surprised at this disparity. The install is scheduled for Monday so I need to make sure of everything before then. I really like the unit. It has all the features I want.

Scott<>

Adapter plugs for the unit are available at Home Depot or hardware stores near you. As for the price when you shop retail you have to consider mark-up and delivery and installation as the attachment says, The installer can probably handle the plug in problem for you also.

Good to know that adapter plugs are available and I don't have to rewire.

The price quoted was irrespective of installation. MSRP is the Manufacturer's Suggested RETAIL Price. So MSRPs would take into account markup. Generally stores won't charge more than MSRP because that's what everyone else charges. I've just never seen a retail price so much higher than MSRP.

I checked some WEB sites that had the unit. Even with shipping costs, the cost would less then what the store charged. However, I'm reluctant to install it myself, because of some other factors and this store offers a deal on installation.

Its not hard to install but a proffessional job by the store saves a lot of sweat and cursing (hopefully)

I am very sure you will not find an adapter that will allow you to plug in a 15 Amp 250 volt plug into a 30 Amp 250 Volt receptacle.

Even if there is one available, I would not recommend using one, as an air conditioner draws a fair amount of current continuously while cooling. Yours will draw a bit more than 7 amps . This, when running continuously for an hour or so, along with the high inherent starting current,will put a strain on any adapter

All an adapter will do is create another set of contacts, and an adapter will tend to want to come loose. These loose connections will cause damaging heat.

Also, please review Page 4 of the unit's Use and Care Manual, and take note of the last statement under Electrical Information, no extension cord or adapter can be used. This is due the reasons I have mentioned.

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo...00085503en.pdf

The best you can do for safe use is to replace the 30 AMp receptacle and plate with a 15 Amp 250 volt NEMA 6-15R receptacle and associated finish plate.

You should also replace the 30 Amp 2 pole circuit breaker with a 15 Amp 2 Pole circuit breaker. Be sure the circuit breaker is rated for HACR, which most on the market are, but you never know. There will be a stamp on the breaker "HACR"

Boy am I glad there are real experts here, Sorry Scott for the bad info.

Thanks, TK. I was hoping you would pop in here.

OK, so I shut off the breaker, replace the receptacle, then shut off the main and replace the breaker? Since the plug has a safety feature is replacing the breaker absolutely necessary?

Any idea of the costs?

Change the outlet and breaker just as you proposed.

Breaker should be about $10.00 and the outlet could be about $5.00.

Be sure all connections are tight.

Good luck. Hope you get the AC going before summer is over. We will be getting down to 45 Deg here, no need for AC.

AC installed today. Figured I'd let you guys know what happened. I couldn't find the 15 AMP receptacle at either ACE, Home Depot or Lowe's. The guy at Lowe's showed me a 20 AMP receptacle and suggested using that. I checked online for the 15 Amp and it indicated the 20 was an acceptable replacement. I also went to the store and made sure the plug fit the receptacle. The guy at the store, who is in charge of the installers, suggested getting some 12 gauge wire and splicing them in because the 10 gauge I have might not fit the terminals on the recptacle. So I got 2' of wire just in case ($.30 big deal).

However, I was able to make loops that fit securely around the terminals on the receptacle. Got everything set up for the installers. I still need to replace the breaker, but I was having trouble finding a 15 AMP 2 pole breaker. Also wasn't sure whether I now need a 20 Amp to match the receptacle.

AC is working great! This is a really nice unit. It boasts a 10.7 EER rating, which is high for an 18,000 BTU unit. It has an ionizer for cleaning the air. And a remote that covers all functions plus has a remote thermostat, so you can set it to operate based on the temp where the remote is.

About the only thing I would prefer is a time of day timer, so I could just set it to go on a half hour before my wife comes home from work each day. It only has a Delayed start and shut off timers.

I was able to set the thermostat to 74 and still maintain a very comfortable environment. Will be interesting to see how my electrical usage changes from last summer.

Scott<>

No problem using the 20 amp outlet, as it will always accept a 15 amp or 20 amp plug. You can now use a 2 pole 20 amp circuit breaker, also within code.

Great, maybe I'll have an easier time finding the 20 Amp breaker. I did have another thought though. The way my house is set up, there is no electricity on that wall except for the wire do the AC. And all the seating is on that wall. I think I saw some 2 outlet receptacles, one with a regular plug and the other AC type (with the horizontal plugs). Then I could use the second plug for other things.

Does that make sense? Would I still want to change the breaker? Or would I be better off leaving well enough alone?

Probably not, since the 120 volt outlet will need a neutral wire, and I am sure all that is at the existing 30 Amp AC outlet is two hot wires and one equipment ground wire.

You would need to run a new 2 wire cable plus ground to feed the 120 volt outlet.

Nice try.

And don't even think of using the equipment ground as a neutral. This is way out of code, as the neutral wire is still considered as current carrying, thou you can touch it and not feel any voltage or current.

Your computer(s) will not appreciate currrent coming back on the equipment ground, as using the ground as an illegal neutral causes current to flow thruout the entire electrical system's ground.