Hi all,

I am trying to tap into the cleanout in my basement and attach a utility sink.

Basically what I am going to do is:

1. Remove the cleanout plug
2. 3" PVC male adapter into where plug was
3. 3" to 2" T adapter on to the above adapter.
4. Add new clean out to other end of 3" T
5. Connect 2" p trap from sink to 2" of T.

Am I doing this correctly? Will I need an AAV here? The pipe from the p trap to sink won't be very tall. Not sure if that is an issue or not.

Thanks in advance.
Here is a picture of my current setup. (I did not install the washing machine)

http://www.doza.biz/lounge/cleanout.jpg

Quote:

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Will I need an AAV here? The pipe from the p trap to sink won't be very tall. Not sure if that is an issue or not.

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The stand pipe should be at least a inch or so over the flood rim of the washer so it won't siphon out the tub. You should vent the washer with a AAV installed between the trap and the sanitary tee. Good luck and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

Actually...
Is there a better way for me to hook this sink up?

The more I am reading, it sems that hooking the sink up this way is not up to code.

Problem is that with your new clean out, drain snake will not make the turn from horizontal to vertical easily, if at all. I would cut in new clean out into existing ABS pipe, 48" above the floor. Then, I would use existing clean out to connect the sink.

BTW: that's the shortest stand pipe I have ever seen ! :-D

Indeed. I doubt that standpipe is up to code, but I'll worry about that after I get the sink in. Perhaps I can drain the washer directly into the sink.

I've encountered another problem of getting the brass cleanout cap off. I tried the ole leverage trick, but bent my wrench!

I am a bit confused at how long the standpipe should be for the sink.

Doza13: sink doesn't have a stand pipe as per say. Wall inlet for sink is from 17-20" above the floor, then you run trap to the sink and connect with sink drain.

If you don't mind the look, then yes, you can install sink and drain washer into it.

Hey Doza...

If you want to get that cleanout out you can use a cold chisel to cut a v-groove into the cap and then take that same chisel and hit it so the cap turns counterclockwise. This is an old drain cleaning trick. See picture.

Here, you cut a v-groove into the brass cap and then use that v-groove to give you the leverage you need to insert the cold chisel into the groove and drive the cap counterclockwise to get it moving. Be careful.. could crack the cast iron fitting if done wrong. Once you get the cap moving use a large wrench to remove the cap (2ft. Wrench).

Washing machine standpipe is usually between 18" minimum and 36" maximum. We recommend standpipe between 30-36" so as Tom said, washer doesn't get siphoned out.

Thanks for the help all. Here is a picture of how things should look (I used another one posted here as a template)

One thing I want to note, that is hard to convey in a 2 domensional picture but the bottom of the sink is only a few inches higher then the cleanout. I think the sink p-trap is higher but maybe only about an inch or so. There is less then a foot or run between the p-trap and the cleanout tee. How many horrible things should I expect with this setup? :D

http://www.doza.biz/lounge/cleanout2.JPG

I'll give you guys all some nice friendly ratings. You have all been extremely helpful. I tried this question over on the certified plumbing site and they all told me to go pound sand and after I am finished, go call a plumber. :cool: