I recently replaced an air control vavle on my well bladder, I primed the pump in accordance with the instructions. My hose spigot has great pressure and maintains it but all my spigots in the house and the washing machine are very, very slow, something is definitely wrong. Any ideas?

Not sure what an air control valve on the bladder tank is unless you are referring to the Schrader valve (like a car tire) on the top of the tank. If you replaced that, then make sure the pressure at the valve reads two pounds BELOW the cut in pressure for the switch. So, if your pump cuts on at 30# (for example), then the tank pressure would be set at 28#. This must be done with the system off and the pressure bled off at a faucet.

Having said that, we must now address the house fixtures problems. It has nothing to do with the above issue. When you work on your system and drain it, as you probably did, then when the system is turned back on and pumps back up to pressure, all sorts of "crud" breaks free and travels to the nearest fixture where it proceeds to clog up everything in sight. It is especially tough on faucet assemblies which have screens on them, shower heads, and washing machines (same screen problem). Disassembly and cleaning is the solution.

That's a lot of slow in all for crude but it very possible. Now lets check you well expansion tank. If that's low that could be a problem. Since you replaced that air valve on tank. First check pump gage and see if that maintains pressure. Now look at that pressure and tuns some water till pump kicks on. What the low limit on the kick for the pump switch is set at the tank pressure should be 2lbs less than the well kicking in. Same goes on the high pressure if the pump cutoff is 50lbs the tank should read 2lbs less than that. Check this. To check the tank its self when full pressure bang on the bottom and up to the top of the tank. It should sound hollow half way up to check the bladder in tank that's its not flooded

Signed 21 Boat

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Philly, if you have good pressure at an outside faucet, that is proof positive that you have pressure in your tank. There is no other explanation. That is why I suggest looking at your faucets. It won't hurt to check your tank, but tank problems will not explain why you have pressure at one point in the system and not at another point. You will either have pressure or not have pressure if the tank is the problem.

While I could not figure out half of what 21 was suggesting (Thats a lot of slow in all for crude but it very possible?? ) he is correct in suggesting it will be wise to simply look at your pressure gauge. If it's down around 5 or 10 pounds then you have pressure problems. I'd be willing to bet it will be at 20 or 30 or above, and that points to adequate pressure at the tank and problems elsewhere, as I described above. BTW, the rust and "crud" breaking loose can lodge in a pipe, but that is unusual.