We are hanging a flat TV on the wall and installing in-wall speakers around it. The problem is that we run into studs where we want to put the speakers. It may seem like overkill to tear into a wall to get the speakers where we want, but I want this to look right and am willing to make the modifications. (after all I'm a man, and this is my new TV!! )

I'm wondering what the recommended way is to cut out the studs in question and create boxes for the speakers to fit in. This is a load bearing wall (it is an outside wall and we live in a single story house). I have an idea in my head of a way to do this, but would like to know the correct way so that it is structurally sound. I'm wondering if we need to shore up the wall if we are only cutting 1 stud at a time? Also I put a picture of the wall in question below from when the house was being built. It would be great if someone could draw on the picture to illustrate the correct way to handle this.

Picture with TV (big box) and speakers ghosted over wall image (it is approximately to scale) The left boundary of the wall is a door, the right boundary is a window:
http://x-site.moodynolan.com/TV.jpg

Picture of wall with my idea. Black are the pieces I'd add (whatever their proper terminology) and red are removals:
http://x-site.moodynolan.com/wallwithchanges.jpg

Picture of wall only:
http://x-site.moodynolan.com/wall.jpg

I would shift 1 way or the other, and not remove studs.
Can you afford to lose some space(3 1/2").
Maybe frame an additional wall in front to allow speakers and TV to be "In wall", and exact location.
Then a picture frame around TV?

We really can't move one way or the other because we're out of space (door on one side window on the other) We also don't like the idea of building the wall out. What are your concerns with modifying the studs? We love this speaker layout the best, but can look at other configurations.

Have you considered putting the speakers behind you rather than on the wall by the TV? Do not mess with load bearing studs, load bearing means it carries the weight of the structure above it, several tons. Speaker were traditionally in front because they were part of the TV, think outside of the box with that new flat screen, ceiling mounts work too.

Judging by the pictures, I am guessing this is a new construction, correct?

If so, have you considered extending the header all the way across the wall, between the windows? Double or triple the two studs you are leaving between the TV and speakers, and frame out horizontal braces above and below the TV and speakers. Check to ensure your local building code would allow for this, if it applies.

Edit: oops, I miss read door and window to be two windows. The header could still be a single beam to make this span though.

Can you "notch" the studs?

The problem with speakers behind is that when watching a movie in surround you want the left right and center channels in front of you roughly at ear level.

This is a finished structure so we'll be tearing the drywall off to do this.

I understand the importance of load bearing walls, however I know people put doors and windows in load bearing walls, so I was looking for the proper way to modify the studs while keeping the strength of the wall.

With my idea, I still don't think you have the room to do it either.

The idea would be to put two boards edge up, supported by double studs on each side to span the entire space. So you'd have to loose about 3" on both sides for the double 2x4.

To avoid that, you may be able for someone to create a piece of steel angle with a few holes for running wires with the appropriate bushings and welded caps at the ends to get the space.

A structural engineer would have to verify the calcs.

If you place this like 6" down from the header, you can have a way to hold up the area with a couple of jacks until the work is complete.

I used to be able to do the calcs, but I'm way to rusty.

After looking at more pictures and consulting with some people at work who may know, apparently this isn't a load bearing wall. It is a gable end.

Here is one proposed solution, we could then reconfigure anything below the header as needed:
http://x-site.moodynolan.com/solution.jpg

The cable end doesn't support much weight at all if the rafters above are runnning parallel to the wall.

It's basically supporting the "Gable" and not much else if the attic is above this. If a room is above this then the wall and windows. It's not load bearing. Two 2x12's are definitely overkill. Two 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 at the most, I would guess.

It's the side support studs I'm more worried about. That's why I suggested a double there or angle Iron. The 2 x12 thing is like putting a car on cinder blocks. The cinder block breaks first.

In this case we wouldn't be removing the studs underneath the header, just repositioning them slightly. I assume they would still be able to share some of the load. In that case are you still nervous about the side support studs?

I tend to overkill, I think I would use the Header as shown, Maybe use 4X4 PT under the header both sides, and a piece above the Header at both sides that shows nothing now.

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