I have a concrete slab floor, and want to install a tiled show floor. I have read a lot on the internet and I am unclear about a few things.

Do I still have to build up a mortar floor on top of the concrete to slope towards the drain to put the membrane on?

Or Can I put the membrane straight on the concrete floor with tar paper under it, and slope the mortar on top of that towards the drain?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi Cobra:

Best job will be to prepitch the membrane by pitching mortar mix on top of concrete. Then after that mortar mix dries you will install tar paper and then finally install the membrane.

Be sure to install small rocks (smooth 1/2" and 3/4" gravel) around the shower drain assembly to keep the WEEP HOLES in the drain assembly from clogging with mortar mix or thick floor mortar.

Check out this link for more information:

How to Build a Shower Pan

Let me know if need more info. Here...

MARK

Thanks for the information I am curious, what was the purpose for the chicken wire in the second mortar mix above the membrane? I understand around the threshold, but not in the main floor?

Also, the drain for my shower is not installed yet. I have the rough in, but no drain. Should I just wait to install that until after I get the mortar, membrane, mortar mix done?

Thanks again for the help.

Chicken wire or hardware cloth is like rebar in concrete, it adds to the overall strength. I would recommend a preformed acryl;ic or fiber glass pan if you never built a pan from scrtach before. Building from scratch is a dying art form that I avoid. I have not done a custom pan in 20 years, preforms are better in my book. Swanstone Products

Cobra...

Try to post from the same thread if you can... helps all involved to follow Q&A... ok? To reply to my next answer, for example, just click on POST REPLY button at the upper left of the screen.

In terms of the chicken wire, yes, chicken wire is used at most shower thresholds and some people use chicken wire in the second pour (the shower floor itself) to help reduce the chances of shower floor cracking. Some people also use fiberglass or carbon fibers to add strength or reduce fatigue on shower floor.

I use a THICK FLOOR MUD myself (modified mortar mix)... but it is expensive and hard to find so I am thinking chicken wire is best approach to this as BALLENGERB1 suggested.

In terms of the shower drain assembly, you want a PVC shower strainer assembly made exclusively for membrane type shower pans... see picture below. You will also need to purchase a membrane cement to cement that drain directly to the membrane, but all will depend on the particular membrane you choose.

The drain should go in prior to installing the pitched mortar. Here, you will install the drain so it is level and the bottom half of the shower strainer is flush with the cement floor itself. Then you backfill the floor and cement around the bottom of strainer. Then you will pitch the mortar. Then you add the tar paper. Then you add the membrane and install the top part of the strainer assemblyto the bottom half of drain (membrane is solvent cemented and bolted between these).

If you are not feeling totally comfortable with all mentioned then it may be a good idea to look into pre-fabricated shower pans like BallengerB1 mentioned at his post. In the long run these work out fantastically for reasonable money and CHEAP LABOR!!

Check out www.swanstone.com for more info. Here...

Let us know what you think...

MARK