The cut-off valve is no longer shutting the water off to my toilet tank and it is also leaking a few drops right at the knob that you turn to shut the water off. How can I fix that?

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Originally Posted by Pinklady303

The cut-off valve is no longer shutting the water off to my toilet tank and it is also leaking a few drops right at the knob that you turn to shut the water off. How can I fix that?

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Purchase a new angle stop,(see image) and shut the water off at the house stop.
Now undo the large nut next to the wall and the small nut from the supply.
Now remove those nuts along with the ferrules from the new valve and simply replace the new valve for the old one. Good luck, Tom

Hi Pinklady:

To stop that leaking shutoff right now, use two pliers or wrenches, one to hold shutoff and the other to TIGHTEN the packing nut (BEHIND HANDLE) about a 1/4" turn CLOCKWISE or more until drip stops. Do not overtighten!

See picture below... ;)

MARK

PS: My picture only shows person using 1 crescent wrench. You need to use two wrenches...ok? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Pinklady:

To stop that leaking shutoff right now, use two pliers or wrenches, one to hold shutoff and the other to TIGHTEN the packing nut (BEHIND HANDLE) about a 1/4" turn CLOCKWISE or more until drip stops. Do not overtighten!

See picture below...;)

MARK

PS: My picture only shows person using 1 crescent wrench. You need to use two wrenches...ok?? Thanks.

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I can't give you an "atta boy" on your post so I will do it here. Good information and the picture tops it off.

Thank you LMTU... I appreciate it!

I was able to stop a slow drip leak right behind the oval plastic knob that turns off the water supply to the toilet tank. I did this by tightening the nut right behind the knob as instructed by Massplumber 2008 on my first question on this site. My next problem is that the water is still slowing going into the tank even though the cut-off valve is turned all the way to the right and should be off. I can shut the water off at the street but need to know what I need to do next - is there a washer that can be replaced or does the valve need to come off or something else?

Hi Pinklady:

Depending on the valve you have you may be able to simply replace the washer. That would entail shutting off the main water supply to the house and then unscrewing that nut that you tightened yesterday and then spinning the STEM assembly out. Then you could pick up an EXACT REPLACEMENT SHUTOFF and take the washer off from that one and replace it into the existing one... that make sense..

Let me know which shutoff resembles yours best... then can tell you how to go about this. If for example, you have a compression shutoff (pic.#1) then you would not just replace the washer but you would instead replace the entire shutoff because these are so easy to replace. If you have 2nd or 3rd shutoff then this is soldered on and will probably be best to try to replace the washer itself first... ;)

Let me know which one is yours... I'm back online around 6:00 PM Eastern time.

MARK

I have the first kind - compression. I will try what you are suggesting and I just can't thank you enough! I will be assisting with dance lessons tonight and tomorrow night so will have to wait until Wed. to work on it. Thank you again! (I wasn't sure how to answer you so this is what I figured out.)

Lady; Did you miss my earlier post?

Quote:

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Purchase a new angle stop, and shut the water off at the house stop.
Now undo the large nut next to the wall and the small nut from the supply.
Now remove those nuts along with the ferrules from the new valve and simply replace the new valve for the old one.

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Tom

YUP! Tom posted on replaceing stop at post #2. I came in and misdirected you PINK!

Since you have the compression shutoff, plan on purchasing a 5/8" compression x 3/8" compression straight stop (if pipe comes out of floor) or angle stop (if pipe comes out of the wall). If the place you purchase the shutoff starts talking about 5/8" OD or 1/2 ID stuff... just tell them that it needs to fit 1/2" copper tubing and transition over to a 3/8" compression x 7/8" flexible toilet supply tube.

Shut main water supply to house off at the meter and then open the lowest fixture in the house (faucet at lowest sink) and open the sink faucet in the bathroom you are working in to drain the pipes so you can work on them.

Then take two wrenches/pliers and hold the shutoff against yourself with one and loosen the compression nut with the other. Then if you are lucky you can use the old compression nut and ferrule... so that means to just install the shutoff without the new brass ring and nut... use the old one if possibel. Should then just need to tighten all hand-tight and then use the wrenches/pliers to tighten down another 1/2 turn or so.

Then shut the faucets you opened and then turn water on to test the job you did... be sure to shutoff the shutoff you just installed BEFORE turning the water back on... ;)

Then you hook the flexible toilet supply to the shutoff and to the toilet and turn shutoff on. If all works then you go and purge the air in the pipes out your faucets by running them for a few minutes until all air/surging ceases. You may also need to bleed air from other faucets/valves you did not drain, but that should only take 30 seconds each faucets/valves.

Let us know if need more information or if you run into anything unexpected... ok?

Thanks...

MARK

Okay - an update. I went to Home Depot and the guy helping me said I needed to know what kind of flexible hose I have because there are several that have different end pieces that connect to the shut-off valve. He showed me and there was one with a washer that was cone shaped and one was regular and then one was really small. I guess I will have to wait now until Saturday when I will have more time and can shut off the water and take off the flexible hose and look at what the end looks like. I appreciate so much all the help you guys have been!! You have no idea. ;)

Hi Pink...

The most common toilet supply line is, as posted at post #10, a 12" long x 3/8" compression x 7/8" toilet nut. Of course, that doesn't mean that is what you have... ;), but it is highly likely!

Anyway, always best to bring the old supply line with you.

Good luck this weekend. Hope all goes smoothly!

MARK

Mark have stated very well, I am just adding the link below to give you an idea that what he is talikng about, Thanks.

John

Toilet Supply Lines

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Since you have the compression shutoff, plan on purchasing a 5/8" compression x 3/8" compression straight stop (if pipe comes out of floor) or angle stop (if pipe comes out of the wall). If the place you purchase the shutoff starts talking about 5/8" OD or 1/2 ID stuff...just tell them that it needs to fit 1/2" copper tubing and transition over to a 3/8" compression x 7/8" flexible toilet supply tube.

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You did good by posting about the possible confusion. Like going to a refrigeration supply house to buy a 7/8 long sweep elbow so it will fit 3/4 copper tubing Long sweep elbows are cool.

Ok... I'm in the process of repairing the toilet! I replaced the toilet fill valve inside the toilet but I am concerned that there is still water coming out of the shutoff valve at the wall. I turned the water off at the street and opened the faucet (cold water) in the sink and bathtub of the bathroom I'm working on. I have been letting it collect in a pan for a little while but guess I will go ahead with trying to replace it while the water is still coming out?

Open ALL faucets, especially the LOWEST faucets in the house like say at the sink in the basement... force most of the water to flow into sink down there instead of where you are working... ;)

Good luck!

Look at the Image and tell me where is the water leaking from, #1, #2, or#3, Thanks.

John

I ended up just replacing the fill valve and reconnecting the hose to the shut-off valve. It really shouldn't matter if it won't shut off all the way for now. I couldn't get the shut-off valve loose from the pipe coming out of the wall. I learned a BIG lesson though - don't use the shut-off valve in place of the fill valve if the fill valve isn't working properly! That is much easier to replace than the shut-off valve. I will say that I have every confidence now - thanks to you guys - that I could replace it if needed - if I can just get the nut undone. :)

Pinklady... did you use TWO pair of pliers or wrenches?

Water was still coming out of the top where the hose goes up to the tank. The water wasn't coming out of the faucet in sink or tub though. I have had some trouble with that nut right above the shut-off valve still leaking a bit. I keep tightening it just a bit with pliers and then checking to see if it has stopped. I am afraid to over-tighten it - however I don't have a lot of strength anyway. Just checked it and it may be also leaking just a tiny bit right behind the knob at that nut.:(