So my Honda civic has decided it doesn't want to run under load.

I had it sitting in my driveway over Christmas for about a week then decided to take it out to my parents with my dogs. It fired up no problem, and let it warm up a bit. When I started to drive, I found that whenever I came to a stop then tried to start up again it would almost die for about 5 seconds (even with gas pedal mashed to the ground) then spontaneously come back to life launching me through the intersection. It did this every time I came to a stop for about 20 minutes, then finally just ended up dying while driving and wouldn't start again. After getting it towed home and going through the engine I found that it had flooded itself. I managed to get it un-flooded and ran it at idle for a while to warm up. I then got in the car, applied the parking break, stood on the brake and put it in drive and gave it a bit of gas. The RPMS got to about 1500 under load then the engine died and ended up flooding itself again...

Any idea's on what could be causing this? I've checked the O-rings around the injectors (dual point injection) and they weren't leaking. I've got good spark coming from the distributor as I just replaced the ENTIRE distributor only 5-6 months ago. Fuel filter is new, plugs are NOT cracked and look fine...

Replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, which affects fuel injector pulse width. It's located under the distributor. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor), whose resistance decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot. They can become corroded (which acts as an insulator), due to not changing the coolant frequently enough, flood the engine, and waste a tremendous amount of fuel.

Here's what it looks like and costs:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=290&PTSet=A

Wrap the threads with Teflon tape and drain the coolant to a level below the sensor. Easy job.

Great thanks! I'll try that tomorrow!

Well I tried installing a new ECT sensor today. Unfortionately the vehicle wouldn't start though. I'm pretty sure its still flooded. I tried unplugging the injectors, pulling out the plugs, and cranking it over for 30 second intervals with 5 minutes in between crankings. I then put the plugs back in, cranked it over again (no fire, no sputter), then plugged the injectors back in and tried starting it. Nothing... not even a sputter came from the engine and now the plugs are wet again..?

Since you replaced the complete distributor recently, perform the tests in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438

I suspect the Ignition Control Module and coil, but you need to run all of the tests. Then, get back to me with the results. In your case, it may be just the coil. Something tells me the ignition system is not up to par and flooding is the effect, not the cause. Excessive cranking, with the plugs removed, can over-stress the coil.

Have you checked the compression of each cylinder?

So funny thing.

A few months ago I had a problem with my Civic running like poo. I ended up swapping a bunch of parts out. It turned out to be 2 cracked spark plugs. I ended up buying a brand new distributor for the Honda (included ICM, coil... etc) So I have 2 spare distributors for the Civic. So today I decided to try swapping out the distributor. To my surprise it fired up first turn over! So I figured that the ICM in the brand new distributor had fried. I ended up swapping the ICM from the old distributor with the new one. Installed the distributor and no luck... didn't fire. Then I figured maybe it would be the coil. Swapped the coil from the old to the new and no luck... So both the coil and the igniter are all right, but for some reason when I put them into the NEW distributor it doesn't want to fire...

I'm going to toy with it again tomorrow and see if I can manage to get it running with the new distributor housing.

My bet is that the new distributor housing is not a Genuine Honda part. We've had many problems on this site with new aftermarket distributors for Hondas. The problem is with the CKP, CYL, or TDC sensor in the new distributor housing. Aftermarket ICMs and coils, however, work fine.

Be sure to coat the back of the ICM with a thin, even coat of heat transfer silicone grease.

Yeah I definitely made sure of that. Even though I have about 3 spares now haha.

So another question. Have you ever heard of coolant leaking anywhere else other than the head gasket that makes it into the chamber? When I start it when its hot, it tends to blow a bit of white smoke out the tail pipe. Compression is good. I'm thinking maybe during heat soak that the coolant pressure gets too high and pushes through a gasket somewhere in the intake? I've replaced the rad cap, but hasn't made any change.

Crack in the head.

Wouldn't a crack in the head smoke continuously though? It ONLY smokes when I try and start it when the engine is hot. Once its started it runs a little rough for maybe 2 minutes or a couple seconds of driving, then runs fine. If I start it when its cold, it starts up with no problem.