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-   -   Repairing exterior tiled path. (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=300374)

  • Jan 7, 2009, 09:36 AM
    Lewisrob10
    Repairing exterior tiled path.
    I have and Edwardian house and the front path has the original tiled floor. Recently the Water board came and removed an exterior pipe. In doing so they had to dig into the path. I managed to take up some of the tiles to refit later but currently there is a hole around six inches deep which needs to be filled before it is retiled. My question is what exactly should I use to fill the hole? The hole is only about a metre square and I need a flat base to retile? Any advice would be appreciated.

    Many thanks

    Rob
  • Jan 7, 2009, 10:01 AM
    21boat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ;
    tiled floor.Water board came and removed an exterior pipe.dig into the path hole around six inches deep which needs to be filled

    I need some translation please in terminology. I'm a contra tor in Pa

    What is the tile made of?
    Where is it exactly outside? Who or what is the "water board"? How deep was the pipe hole dug to begin with before backfill?
    Please give as much details as possible so I can help you

    Example a newly dirt filled ditch will post settle if not mechanically tamped.

    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
  • Jan 7, 2009, 11:26 AM
    Lewisrob10

    Hi there Boat. More info as asked. The tiles seem to be ceramic, about half a centimetre thick. They are outside the front of the house leading up to the door. The Water board are "Essex and Suffolk water" responsible for the water and drains around here. They removed a pipe and leaking exterior stopcock. They dug down about 3 to 4 feet and when finished back filled the hole to about 6 inches from the surface. Seems pretty solid but very uneven. Hope this helps. Thanks for your time. Rob
  • Jan 7, 2009, 11:57 AM
    21boat

    Yes It does thank you.The best base material for the bottom is a crushed stone base about 4 inches thick and tamped with a hammer and board. Then a 1" thick of coarse sand on top of the stone to spread and level adjust the tweak part. Set tile and rubber mallet it in place or a board and hammer. Be aware you will probably over time need to readjust for post settling. But now have a good stone base and just reset tiles again in time if needed The extra sand can be used from tile to tile gaps to fill in just through sand on and sweep it in. This is the best and proper way to set tile I assume it wasn't a concrete mortared set up you wanted. I'm a mason and can help you there also. I hope this gets you fixed up. Post back if anymore questions

    Signed 21 Boat

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  • Jan 7, 2009, 04:30 PM
    Lewisrob10

    Cheers Boat, info much appreciated.

    Rob
  • Jan 7, 2009, 04:39 PM
    ballengerb1

    Hey Rob, I agree with the crushed stone, I use limestone screenings which compact nicely. However, the water company dug fairly deep and their fill is going to slowly compact and settle for over a year. If you do the job not it will likely need a "tune up" in aniother 12 months. Not such a big deal since you can lift the tiles out and just level more screening.

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