Hi,
Doing an extensive DYI rehab on a single family home in NJ.
The short question is does this look like it will meet code?
The Galvanized Pipe and the cast iron stack it is attached to will be removed when I get this hooked up.
My concerns are:
I did not put a vent up on the tub on the right side of photo. I believe the 4" line the trap is hooked to will act as a "wet vent", am I correct?
NOTE A: This goes to a shower drain, has a 2" trap. No Vent going up. The trap is attached to a 14" long pipe, in turn connected to a 3" street L (with reducer bushing) and then to the top of the 3" Wye. Do I need more vent than this?
NOTE B: This serves a bath sink and is vented up at the Tee behind the sink and ties back into the Stack 6' above the sink rim.

Let me know if further questions or if you want more pictures.

Thanks, Steve

Hi Steve:

Sorry, but this would not pass inspection.

First, you will need to add a 4"x1.5" sanitary tee and install an 1.5" vent for the tub. You can attach to the older galvanized vent near the tub or an entirely new vent in its place. This vent can connect into other vents upstairs as long as you connect into other vents at least 6 inches above flood level rim of the LAVATORY. The 4"x1.5" sanitary tee needs to be rolled above centerline of the 4" pipe to be a legal vent.

The shower drain/venting is also questionable. What size is the lavatory vent? If it is 2" full size until it connects into the 2" or larger vent upstairs then you MAY be able to call this a WET VENTED SHOWER IF you were to install the shower drain so it connects into the 3" pipe BELOW the lavatory drain... see picture. The 3" pipe only needs to be 2" by the way... not that 3" is bad...just not required...can pipe shower and sink together as 2".

Anyway, I say you add the vent for the tub (reduce tub drain to 1.5" after the trap... ;)) and then call the inspector in and see what he thinks. Different inspectors allow different things... and he may cut you some slack here... never know??

Also, notice that I added some cleanouts. These cleanouts are REQUIRED exactly as drawn in... o.k.?

Let us know if need more...

MARK

OK! That helps so much.

Almost none is glued so easy to modify.

I have one question from your response. For the tub, can the transition from 4" to 2" be made closer to the toilet; then put a 2" x 1 1/2" sanitary tee in? If yes, is rolling it to be above centerline of 2" pipe sufficient?

I am going to make your changes, then take a pic into the inspector and see what he thinks before I glue up. He seemed to be a decent sort when I went into apply for the permit.

Thanks,

Best, Steve


PS: Will be rating and sending a small donation

Glad you asked for info before addressing inspector. Also, good thinking about not glueing before knowing if it was right or not.

Marks advice would clear inspection. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Hi all...

Steve, I'm glad you asked that question on reducing to 2" nearer toilet... made me think for an extra minute.

In fact, I'm betting the inspector would want to see 4" run so that you end run with a 4" cleanout (inspectors and code LOVE full-size cleanouts)... and then install a 4"x2"wye with a cleanout (before 4" end cleanout) to pick up tub and tub vent... See picture below.

Let me know what you think...

MARK

Mark,

I think that is a good idea and is likely what I will do since you suggested it.

Nevertheless when I spoke with inspector at time I applied for permit I asked him about cleanout in this location. He responded, "No you can access (cleanout) through the tub drain and you won't have access to it once sheet rock is up anyway". I was surprised at this but I did not argue.:)

Having said this, if I put a cleanout in, then "bury" it behind Sheetrock am I doing more damage then good?

As far as that galvanized pipe goes, it is the drain for existing fixtures. It goes into cast iron stack that exits out a side wall, not the roof. I did not feel anything was salvageable; once I get this hooked up it all comes out.

Thanks Again, Steve

Hi Steve:

All these cleanous will be READILY ACCESSIBLE from the basement... right? Therefore, inspector will be happy to see them. NO cleanouts above the floor/behind sheetrock... OR are you palnning to sheetrock all this in when done? If so, may ned to add an access panel at the 4" main cleanout but won't need cleanout by tub... maybe?

Let me know if this is not clear... glad to explain. This can be tough VIA line drawings!

Mark,
No this pic is standing on the first floor looking up (not the basement.)

Will be putting in a drop ceiling under this. 130 year old house with 10 ft ceilings.

The you can see the beginning of framing in front of pic that "hides" the drop.

Steve

OK...

Remove cleanouts... except one at the base of the 4" stack (or place at base of stack in basement)...ok??

Otherwise all else stands..just add a 4"x2" reducer after the toilet... see new pic.

That should get all passed... *crossing fingers*... Let us know how you make out or if have more questions!

Thanks...

MARK

OK!
No cleanouts except at base.

Can I do the 4 x 3 reducer as shown on pic with a 2 x 2 x 1 1/2 wye behind it?
Or should I do a 4 x 4 x 1 1/2 Wye and then the reducer?

Thank You Thank You Thank You!

Steve... forgive me... you said DROP CEILING... if installing drop ceiling then I would go with the cleanouts... up to you and inspector, but that makes cleanout easily accessible in future.

I would then go back to pic. At post #5

I'm off for the night! Leave me any questions and I'll post back in early AM!


Let me know... ok?