I have a 30 amp double pull breaker and 10/3 running to the dryer outlet.
Can I use the existing 10/3 wire and put it into a 20 amp breaker (black wire only cap off the red in the panel) and take apart the 240 plug near the dryer and run the 10/3 into a junction box and run 12/2 from the box to a plug. I know you can't go lower on gauge i.e.. 10 for 30 amp, 12 for 20 amp, 14 for 15 amp. I do not know if the 10/3 wire will fit and tighten correctly on a 20amp breaker.

It would be very difficult to run a new 12/2 line.

My second option is to put a sub panel near the dryer and add a 20amp breaker.

Any input would be appreciated.

Pelle- YOU MAY save quite a bit if you just went out and got a gas dryer; by the time you do all the changing inside the dryer,for the parts, IF you decide to do this ,you can change the wires in the panel box to make it 110 volt, that's all you will have making the change to gas, the black wire is the hot wire, the red wire screw cap it off ;; the white wire will be the natural wire, put it the same place you do the ground wire, at the receptical, change it to a 110 volt outlet and replace the plug wire to the dryer, it will be a three wire that way. In the wall box ,cap off the red wire also;; probably wha=t you could sell your elect. Dryer for you could buy the gas dryer ; F.B.E.

Pelle... you can simply replace the outlet and change the breaker. Cap off one of the wires at both ends. And you have an extra circuit available if you need it down the road. A heavier wire won't hurt anything, but you need to size the breaker according to the outlet required, and the manufacturers designation. And I think that "Flying blue eagle" missed the point of your question.
Please correct me if I am wrong.

FBE: You missed the point. Conversion from electric to gas which is the smart move.

pelle:
You can pigtail at the box from #10 to #12 at both locations (breaker box and outlet). Put a note at the panel that this was done. The breaker will not likely have a problem as most will accept from #14 to #4.

The 20A outlet will have problems. Pigtail. As long as the breaker is rated for the weakest link, your fine.

Cap the red as you suggest.

Sorry Kiss mus thave repped you before can't give you any more. I knew about the outlet and wire gauge was unsure about the breaker.. thanks!

HAY KISS AND MO BOUND: I just for got to add the smaller breaker, I do not understand why youal said to put AQ box and pig tailfrom 10to12you repeated what I said how to do the red wireon both ends, around here they would not pass this way;maybe where youal are you canm get away with it :: sorry iI missed the breaker change , F>B.E.

Do not forget the continuous ground requirements and metal box bonds.

HVAC
I did not forget. The last thing I need to find is the info for grounding the trac pipe I am running. They recently changing the installation instructions on that and it requires grounding also. Do you have any info on this or was it just regional change.

This has been a messy subject for some time. It is bnest if you check with the AHJ in your area since it seems many areas have taken it upon themselves to write a code on it. LOL Sorry but I used to preach to follow the manufactures install instructions only to find out that in may areas the bonding/grounding requirements if any did not count for a hill of beans.

http://www.tempaco.com/documents/Tra...quirements.pdf


CSST gas piping systems shall be bonded to the electrical service grounding electrode system at the point
Where the gas service piping enters the building. The bonding conductor size shall be not less than #6 AWG
Copper wire or equivalent

http://www.toolbase.org/pdf/techinv/...ngconcerns.pdf

http://www.ci.owatonna.mn.us/service...ite_TB2007.pdf