What is the BEST and EASIEST Laminate flooring to install? I previously installed SHAW brand in my Son's bedroom and they didn't snap in well at all. Can I tack in some of the flooring that is sticking up with brad nails? Thanks.

One of the "problems" with laminate that has the tilt lock grooves is properly working that groove before seating the floor. The strip needs to be placed into the groove - held at a 45 degree angle and then worked up and down several times to clear/seat the groove. When the plank is then placed down it should not feel like it is fighthing you. The seam should then be tight and smooth.

An easy and very tough flooring is Dupont Elite. I also like the Thomasville flooring and have the walnut in a half bath. Some people feel it dents easily but I've not had that problem. Home Depot at least sells both.

Planks - Laminate Flooring - Flooring at The Home Depot

I still need someone to tell me if it's O.K. to tack some of the laminate floor boards down that are sticking up.

Yes tack it down it's a floating floor but some tacks are fine. Now here are some good tacks to use and don't use a finish nail. Get some long colored paneling nails. They are ribbed and hold better for your application. It's a skinny nail. Tack them at a slight angel it helps them from backing out. If they are a little tough to start and the floor will be a bit bouncy use a very small drill bit and drill a starter hole for the nail. The flooring people will not like my answer but I get in a lot of rehab and you got to be creative

Signed 21 boat

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When you say it is sticking up - in what way? Are the seams coming apart or is it together and just buckled up in the air at some of the seams like a pyramid.

If its sticking up like a pyramid you may not have left enough expansion at the edges. That could be a pretty easy fix. You can check by taking a baseboard loose that runs parallel to the seams. Is there at least 1/8 inch of open space along the wall?

The floor is not buckeling. I left 1/4" all around. It's just that the tung and groove did not fit perfectly and there are some gaps and uneveness. I think the floor may be uneven.
Any suggestions??

Anyone out there able to answer my question about tacking down a Laminate floor? Will this prevent the floor from expanding?

Are you talking about the engineered floor that snaps together and is about 9mm thick as opposed to the prefinished 3/4 Haywood floors?

Signed 21 Boat

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Yes I am. They are the snap together (Shaw brand). There is some separation in between the boards, and they did not join together perfectly. Some stick up just a hair.

What is the subfloor underneath the new floor and what prep did you do if any?
Is this above a garage or a crawl space floor?

The sub-floor was tile squares. I used an approved underlayment and left 1/4" space all around.

I installed it over a tile floor. Used approved underlayment and left 1/4" space all around. They just didn't snap together right. Floor was very uneven. Was not above garage or crawl space.

What is the actual floor sitting on under the underlayment and square tiles. I'm trying to see if there is a moisture problem sucking into the new floor and buckling it even though it's a floating floor. Is there more movement in other areas starting or is this a one spot problem?

There is a plywood floor underneath. It's not that it is buckling, it just never when in right to begin with.

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Originally Posted by ;

it just never when in right to begin with

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oh you mean you installed it and missed the god "snap" and didn't catch it until now. I need the a to z please and don't leave anything out even if you think it doesn't apply
Thanks

They just didn't snap together right. When you look at the floor, you can see the gaps between some of the slats. Some of the floor sinks when you walk on it due to the floor being un-even. Can I use filler in those gaps ? Can I also tack is some boards that are sticking up ?

You can tack some nut not too many it needs to expand and contract. That's the problem with the directions you get. I mostly do rehab and many times I need to skim coat the original floor before underlayment. The floor doesn't have to level just FLAT. The un even is sink is going to be a problem and try to separate the seams because of the twist and bow at the same time. How long after the floor was down and used before this happened or was it on the get go a day or so later it happened. I personally like the glued and tongue and grove for this reason especially on an uneven floor. I realize you into it now. Some spot nails is fine or take up floor and start over ooh.
Here's what stupid about the directions the 1/4 gap outside floor is good but what about setting your toilet ad compressing the bathroom floor when bolting up the Johny. How about when you lift a radiator 9m to sneak the floor under the feet. Many people will set the vanity's on the free floating floor.
See my point of directions.

How big are the gaps and a filler would not work or hold due to the movement of the floor not to mention the looks

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll cover up the gaps with a small round throw rug.

Sorry I couldn't do more for you but Tried to give you as much info as possible I hate when I can't resolve a situation but its limited by the job and material conditions Maybe some one else here will see the post and have other solid fixes here but I don't see it at this point but we tried

Sorry: 21 Boat

I would NEVER tack down a laminate floor PERIOD. Hence the reason why it's called "FLOATING FLOOR" If it is coming up somewhere, then there is something wrong with the way it was installed.