I manually opened one of my home's five Honeywell zone valves (V8043E-1012) by mistake. I meant to open a different valve. The one I opened had its thermostat set to its lowest temp setting, as it controls heat to a space I hardly ever heat. The next day the valve was still in the open position and heating the space I do not want to heat. The "manual open" lever moves back and forth freely. (I'm not sure but I think the space is heated only when another zone calls for heat and thus turns on the circulator pump.)

How can I "force" the valve closed again? Can the powerhead be replaced/repaired without removing the valve?

I would appreciate any advice you have.

Hi Ronaldd:

If valve still in open position then most likely that you will need to replace the powerhead exactly as you suggested.

Should be an Easy fix:

Shut power off to boiler

Twist powerhead counterclockwise a 1/8th turn or so to loosen and then lift to remove the powerhead.

Purchase a new powerhead at home depot or Lowe's (TACO brand here... any other brand may need to go to a plumbing supply house).

Remove wires from the powerhead... be sure to label each wire (with tape) as top, middle or lower (or 1,2,3) so you can put back exactly as needed.

Rewire as labeled

Be sure powerhead is in AUTO position (not open) and then turn power back on and you should be all set.

Finally, if powerhead is super old you may need to replace the whole zone valve, but try this above first.

Let me know if need more here... ;)

MARK

If the valve is super old there is a adapter kit that will save you from soldering in the new one.

Conversion Kits:
Conversion kits for converting old style (series 1-5) valve
bodies to accept 40003916 Powerhead (use with V4043,
V4044, V8043, V8044). Includes metal plate with driveshaft
and rubber ball, O-Ring and four screws.
Two-way water valve body: 40003918-006.
Three-way water valve body: 40003918-007.

Two-way steam valve body: 40003918-008Listed in this file on page 6 and page 13 for the install of the kit

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf

You will also find other useful info for how to disassemble etc.

If you can post a pic of the valve, we may be able to help manually turn it off. If it's the honewell I'm thinking of, you may want to replace inside parts (basically just a rubbler ball). Once the head is removed, you should be able to turn the stem by hand, if it is tight or hard to turn, you will want to replace. Lets see a pic, or get a make and model, and we will take it from there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

if you can post a pic of the valve, we may be able to help manually turn it off. If its the honewell im thinking of, you may want to replace inside parts (basically just a rubbler ball). Once the head is removed, you should be able to turn the stem by hand, if it is tight or hard to turn, you will want to replace. Lets see a pic, or get a make and model, and we will take it from there.

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Reply form Ronaldd: The model number is Honeywell V8043E-1012 (at least 8 years old). Am I going to have to drain the system in order to free-up this valve?

The pics are attached.

Many thanks.

Ronaldd

First disconnect one of the wires that goes to the motor to see if it closes. There could be power still being applied to the circuit causing the valve to be open.

If that fails to allow the valve to close then it looks like it is stuck for some reason or another. As mygirlsdad said it might be the little rubber ball that has gone bad but as a last resort try tapping on the brass base of the valve to see if it will pop loose. Now do not use a 5 pound hammer just a standard duty one will work fine if you know what I mean. I have used this method before with a little success so no harm in trying. Just make sure the lever is in the auto mode and not locked open.

If that fails to close the valve then a replacement is in order. You should be able to reuse the base that is soldered in place but you will have to make sure it is clean inside with no residue of the old ball left so it will nor restick. This problem probably happened from lack of use.

Now if you are a little bit of a risk taker you can also remove the motor assembly to get to the valve stem. This way you can also try to move the stem with a bit more tool leverage than the spring or motor will apply. Caution!! Hot water can burn you. Be very careful when working on a system while it still contains hot water.
Here is a diagram with info on your valve and a exploded view to show the parts.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf

Disclaimer: I am not an expert. Consider waiting for an expert to comment on my post before doing anything.

Ronaldd, I had a similar problem and I just had the very same valve, V8043E1012, replaced yesterday by my maintenance guy and was playing with the old one this morning to see how it works.

You can replace it without turning off the water.

Your manual lever should not move freely (meaning loosely). When you move it from the automatic position as shown to the manual position it should move slowly with resistance turning the gears.

If it moves freely try this to get it re-engaged and to close the valve:
In your first photo look down into the tight space between the back side and the flange with the screw in the middle. You should see a small metal plate attached to a spring which is secured down at the right bottom near the manual lever.

With the manual lever down in the automatic position as in your photo the spring should not be extended and its plate should be to the right of the flange screw.

If the spring is extended with the plate positioned just to the left of the flange screw then try pushing the plate to the left with a screwdriver (or skinny finger). The plate and spring should snap to the right and the manual lever should now be engaged and the valve open. Perhaps you can then live with it as is because you rarely need its heat.

The advert I see below your original post has PEX Tubing - Wirsbo Radiant Heat - Taco Pumps - Radiant Floor Heat - PEX Plumbing Supplies where the valve is on sale for $55. I paid $260 (valve $155, service call $85, plus tax).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnxlogue

The plate and spring should snap to the right and the manual lever should now be engaged and the valve open. Perhaps you can then live with it as is because you rarely need its heat.

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I meant "and the valve closed".

Good advice from johnx. This valve is the one I had in mind. The great explanation above as to how to manually close it was just what I would have said. If this works, you will either need to replace head, or most likely head and valve assebly(not valve housing, just the inside and cover place(one piece)) changing just the head may or may not opening system. If there are only two screws that hold the head on, then you can remove these two screws and head without breaking system seal. If there are four screws that hold the head in place, then once you remove the four screws, there will be nothing left to hold sealing plate in place and you may lose water. I couldn't tell for sure whether there were two or four mounting screws from the pics. Good news is, you should not have to do any soldering or cutting of pipes. Keep us posted, take care,

Lee

Many thanks for help from Lee, Mark, HVAC1000, and others. It turns out that I can dodge the bullet for now by using a screwdriver and gently but forcefully pushing the plate attached to the return spring in the clockwise direction. Doing this has closed the valve. Since I don't use this zone anyway, I can wait till later to replace either the powerhead alone or the rubber ball and the powerhead.

The "Ask Me Help Desk" is a great service for us "almost" guys who know too much to simply watch but not enough to know what to do. You guys have been great. Thanks again.

Ronaldd

You are welcome

Glad we could help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

. As mygirlsdad said it might be the little rubber ball that has gone bad but as a last resort try tapping on the brass base of the valve to see if it will pop loose. Now do not use a 5 pound hammer just a standard duty one will work fine if you know what I mean. I have used this method before with a little success so no harm in trying. Just make sure the lever is in the auto mode and not locked open.http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf

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Hello,
I have been reading this post and would like to thank you for the 'tapping' info... I have done this and seems to have done the trick - can you guess if it popped closed by tapping which part I would need to replace??

Actually they close by spring tension and the power open with a motor. So if you tapped it and it closed then it must be spring tension. Also always make sure to see if the lever is in the auto mode if so equipped. If it popped closed then the assembly might have been stuck. In many cases you can just replace the valve top but that also means you have to drain or relieve some of the pressure off the system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnxlogue

I meant "and the valve closed".

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Hi John and all,

I know this is an old thread but I have the same problem. The spring assembly and plate are in the correct position as per johnx's suggestions, however one zone heat is still constantly on.

Could I get a clarification on Johnx's suggestion:

Right now, the manual lever is in the AUTO position, and the plate/spring are in the correct position, i.e. the plate is to the right of the screw in the flange.

Should I be trying to force the plate into the right of screw position while the lever is locked in MANUAL? Whenever I push the lever to manual, it automatically goes back to the AUTO position.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

EC-2008, I'm neither an expert nor a handyman and I won't attempt to answer your question as my knowledge on the subject is limited to what I posted way back then.

I think the experts must have missed your question for whatever reason.

Yo, fellas, are you there?

John L.

Read page 20 of this link.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/60-2133.pdf

Yes, valves can be forced to close with a screwdriver. They are also easy to replace without unsoldering, provided you have an identical valve which you can take the working parts (guts) out of. I just bought some V8043 valves with endswitches(normally closed), undid the 4 screws holding the original one in then substituted the mechanism of the new valve ( including the new O-ring after cleaning the seat of course). Just watch which way the tiny drilled dimple holes fit into the gasket plate. If you are using 24 volts AC you can't really invert the wires, yellow usually goes to the zone valve while red is usually for the end switch which turns on the boiler or pump relay.

Thank you...

I read about my problem on this page and learned soooo much. I live in an apartment and it is so hot, I was sure we had to have the heat on. When I got down on the floor after finding the unit ( honeywell ) I saw the gear and a small amount of melted red plastic or rubber on the unit, and actually on the gear. I took a screw driver ( shaking ) and the motor made a small sound as it moved :) It cooled down right away, and I didn't even have to call the manager, YAY!!

Debbie

Glad to hear the previous info helped you out.