Hi, I have a contractor who is running white romex wiring up from the basement into the attic (about 8 different wires not tied togeather) but he is running them up the space occupied by the "stove pipe" that carries the (hot) exhaust up from the homes gas heat to the outside. I am concerned this might be a fire hazard (we are adding 2 children's bedrooms in the attic. Many places these are touching the pipe. The contractor says not to worry because the pipe is a double pipe. Should I be worried?
Also one other question, there were several (between 6 and 8) pieces of electrical wiring workers removing insulation found in the attic. One showed me with his tester after two other workers got "bit" that they were live although they had wire nuts over the end. (there was some exposed wire obviously) Well the workers turned off the breaker box and "took care of the problem" the contractor says the workers pulled the wire out. But I am skeptical as I understand it is hard to pull out knob and tube wiring. And the longest piece of wire I found was about 2 ft long in the attic while cleaning up after they left. Also I figure this wire was connected to the breaker box. There were 2 pieces of old wire connected to the breaker box before the incident and there are still two pieces of old wire connected to the breaker box after they "took care of the problem" I am concerned the workers just turned off the power cut the lines. Applied wire nuts and dropped them into the walls. They have put plywood floor down now. Would insisting the two old wires be disconnected from the breaker box be adequate to insure that these wires probably not be hot any longer? Many thanks and may God bless you for helping us. Len

I am not sure what kind of stove pipe you have. Some of what you are asking is what the manufacture speaks are on the pipe and what the inspector will allow.. BASICs No wires to touch hot stove pipe. Or in an active chimney. The knob and tube they may have shorten the wires that word cracked and bad. I if possible remove all knob and tube and if it works out use the old wire of knob and tube to pull new wire through walls form breaker box.. The one thing really wrong Is no you CAN NOT junction a wire without a junction box and it HAS to be accessible at any time. Absolutely NO wires nutted and THROWN behind a wall even with a junction box for nutted wire, nor can you bury a nutted wire and junction box in a floor that's closed top and bottom and not assessable. Where is the permit and who is going to inspect the ruff and finish wire. I would demand a showing of a permit from them now. Obviously there is none. No inspector in there right mind would allow what's is happening there. STOP WORK! Get inspector/permit and inspect what was done already. PS. If the knob and tube was changed for the load check if the new wire to carry the (found old wire) and the added load is not to heavy for the circuit. Also The two old knob and tube wires must be disconnected from the box and really should be pulled out so no mistakes later. I have a saying on our jobs "when in doubt call him out" The INSPECTOR! And my but is covered and my job insurance is covering inspected work.
21 Boat.

21boat:

There is ONE system for joining Romex that can be left behind a wall that meets the NEC code for being concealed.

There is another system that can be concealed for manufactured housing and be concealed. Not sure if this part is OK for all concealed uses.

As 21boat mentions, the proper clearances would be listed in the manufacturer's instructions for the flue pipe.

According to this site:
VentingPipe.com - Your source for Venting Pipe

The minimum distance I can find is 2 inches, so no cable should be in contact with the flue pipe at all, along with any combustibles.

While 21boat mentions calling in the inspector, and I agree 100%, I have a feeling that this may not happen.

Having two bedrooms in an attic will not be allowed if there is only one egress (fire exit) from that space.

I mention this in an effort to notify and advise the poster of this easily missed, and potentially fatal, violation, and to reconsider having the kids placed in such a dangerous position without a proper fire escape.

Keppitsimplestupid I'm not aware of that system. Probably because I follow a lot "when in doubt pull it out" As we constantly are into K&T wire on my rehabs. Should look that up. My area goes NEC and also its old codes."Tuff" sometimes. Thanks for bringing that up.
tkrussel In 79 Hart and Cooley was pioneer for a "fossil fuel" SS chimney extremely hot conditions 1,500 degrees + and 2" air space to combustibles.That standard is still basically used today. The fire exit is true unless the "use" word is changed word play. Thank you both for being good at what you do!

21boat:

1116377-2 Product Details - Tyco Electronics

Not sure if this p/n was superseded or not. It works for all. It's available at local electrical supply house.

This is the one, I'm unsure of about the approvals. Might me modular home only: Modular Splice & Tap Kit - 194130062 - Smarthome

V90030, were these electricians (which I doubt) or were they just carpenters or GCs?

What you describe is the work of a hack carpenter who thinks he knows what t he is doing with electrical. Very typical I must say unfortunately.

NO ONE but a qualified electrician should mess with K&T wiring. The consequences are just too great!