I'm back. The Trane roof top unit model YYC0361FMOBE is still not working and I have cleaned the flame sensor, cleaned the spark ingnitor, checked the pressure switch and last thing I did was install a new valve.
Could it possibly be the circuit board?
Where can I get one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
Are there any good web sites that I can get one for less than a couple of hundred bucks?
I suppose a stick of TNT would also do the trick but the lady that owns the unit would be more angry than she is now.
How about a little help.

Thanks

Sorry to be so blount but, instead of replacing parts that evidently arn`t bad,, you would be better of to pay the piper (from the start) and have a pro. To come out and fix it right. All the money done spent and still no heat, if the pro. Puts in the wrong part and still not fixed e should be the responsible one and stand behind his work

Wow you have been all over that unit. Refresh my memory. What was the last thing you did and what is it doing now? Do not give up the ship yet.

I have to disagree. Jump ship on this now and cut your loses. Changing every part you can reach with a screwdriver may eventually fix the problem but then again it may not. You've probably already thrown a couple hundred at this. You could have called a service tech out and had it fixed by now.

Or continue to restore it, one part at a time, to showroom new condition. You could put it in parades and stuff. It'll turn some heads, no doubt...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hvac1000

Wow you have been all over that unit. Refresh my memory. What was the last thing you did and what is it doing now? Do not give up the ship yet.

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I'd like to say that of all the help I got, you were the best. Thank you very much.
I did call a service man and, believe it or not, the unit ran perfectly. I had been there, at the unit in question, the day before and it was doing the same thing. Cycleing as before.
The Technician jumped the t-stat wires, as I had done in the past many times. The inducer blower came on the ingnitor sparked and the gas came on, it was staying on and never once did it cycle. He started it another time and, by golly, it stayed on again.
Things like these really make me wonder, if I should stop doing this forever.
It's like when you take your car to a mechanic and tell him that something is wrong with your car. But the car does not do what it was doing before you took it to him.
I will keep an eye on the Trane unit and see if it does it again. If it does, should the service man come back and not charge another fee?
Anyway, thank you for your help and rest assured that if I ever run into another hvac problem-- you will be the person I will ask.

Frank

Thank you for the compliment. I would also like to add that I have also told others to call to have someone repair there unit but in your case you took a special interest and you have some knowledge and background to work from. Intermittent problems are the worst to find and calling a professional as you did sure did not solve your problem so calling another professional might have the same results. During my business career we never charged a service call fee for going back on a unit within 30 days IF we could not find the problem to start with and within on year if the problem was caused by a part we already replaced. Now within the 30 day time range we did charge our normal labor rate for the time we spend on the unit but never the service call itself more than one time. This was my policy but I have no idea what others do. Lets face it you can service call someone to death and never fix the problem. LOL

In many cases in my area I was the service of last resort since many people would call there regular service company back time and time again with no satisfaction until the manufacturer was involved. At that point the manufacturer would call us in not only to fix the unit but to calm some nerves and spread a bit of good will. In some cases we spent hours on the manufactures payroll (at time and a half of our normal rate which was high to start with) hooking up test instruments, taking readings, and checking the entire install for compliance to the manufactures install instructions. In many cases we installed a dialer system so we would get a phone call from the machine in question when an event would happen so we could get there right away to see exactly what our monitoring equipment would say. Other times I remember as a young man actually camping out for over 36 hours sitting next to a 500 HP R-11 chiller waiting for the oil pressure safety to pop and shut down the entire system. This was in a hospital setting and all the secondary backup units would come on making a real mess of things. I found out the problem was with the oil washout and shut down system but what a pain in the A$$. We re-piped the system and the problem went away.

There are some really great guys on this board that try to help everyone but common sense tells them that after so many tries it is better to advise on calling a professional to have a look see with a on site inspection and repair. In most cases this is the best advice they can give after exhausting all there resources and the knowledge base of the poster with the problem. Many times we have to face the facts that the poster with the problem does not have the ability to find there air filter location let alone replace a gas valve if you follow my drift so we are a bit judgmental in almost all cases.

In the future if I can be of service I will hopefully be here. I have cut off my direct emailing provisions some time ago since to many people were emailing me to answer there questions and I felt it best to discuss the problems on a open format so all the other posters could read there posts and see what the cure was for there problem.

Being defeated is often a temporary condition. Giving up is what makes it permanent.

A few more notes for you


The Trane gas pacs, (YCC) have that 9 pin plug that the solder on the back side of that plug gets small cracks around the little pin, and usually the gas valve won't work correctly. Easy fix with a soldering iron and about 5 minutes. (It might not hurt to check this and solder over if you feel there is a problem. A good eye loop or magnifier glass works well to see the small cracks and make sure the pins on the ribbon connector if so equipped are all set into the receptacle correctly.


Just for the heck of it if you have a old working cheap thermostat laying around you might temporary hook it up to the system to see if that makes a difference. I believe the R or (RH) and W wires are all you will need to hook up.

Thanks for the "head's up". I did check for cracks on the back of the PCB and There was a brand new thermostat that the lady's son had installed. He did it right.
Still haven't a clue as to why the unit didn't work all the while I was checking it out and only worked when the service man she hired came and turned it on.
I was angry at myself. I did everything that I knew from all the years of experience I have.
It only worked when the hired tech was there.
All he did is jump the red and white wires as I had done numerous times and the stupid a/c came on and never once cycled. Grrrr.
It has now been three days and I've not heard from the lady, so I'm assuming it is still working or she feels I'm too dumb to fix it.
Thanks again
Frank

All he did is jump the red and white wires

That is why I mentioned thermostat since it is possible for it to send a signal and then interrupt causing that problem. BTW R and W should bring on the heat.

Hopefully the New Year will be better.