I have a REEM RGRA 07EMAEB fyrnace.

The blower motor comes on but doesn't suck enough to close the pressure switch. My exhaust and intakes are free of obstructions have proper termination, proper amount of elbows and my ptrap is working properly and draining.

I changed the inducer motor and pressure switch which changed nothing. My heat exchanger is not cracked nor leaking. I am confused why won't my inducer close the pressure switch?

Water or other blockage in switch hose?

Nope hose from blower to switch is free of water and pin holes

Try this: remove the exhaust from the inducer if it's not glued and run unit BRIEFLY to see if it works. Do the same with intake or burner box cover off.

I have already tried running the unit with the exhaust removed and the intake removed separately and together with no success.

Does the switch hose connect directly to the inducer housing? You mentioned that you replaced the inducer? Did you check the hose nipple on the housing for blockage?

Yes I verified the nipple on the inducer cassing and the nipple on the pressure switch all clear when checking my pressures I did so on the inducer cassing nipple then between the inducer and the pressure switch with an inline T I have a fluctuating -.5 to -.7'' instead of -1.3

Okay, garden-variety suggestions exhausted, time to start reaching. Is the inducer running at the proper speed? Check voltage to motor with inducer running-if you haven't already. Sounds like you have already given this more than the average college try.

Never thought of checking voltage... this motor has a 3 prong connector do I check between black and white?

Probably, the third line is probably a ground.

Actually the motor is grounded at the gas valve but ill check it out

What color is the third wire? It could be a two-speed motor. Perhaps it isn't running at the high-speed for some reason.

Black white and black

If motor has a label, look for rpm's-are two given?

actually 4 wires black, brown brown and white.
White to black = 120.9 v
brown to white = 5.7 v (both of them)

So power is good

No rating plate on blower but its only one speed I'm sure.

I put high temp silicone around the heat exchager cover gasket between the plate and blower now I have -1" of succion so the furnace will usually turn on but as soon as I put the front pannel on, succion drops and flame goes out

Check the amp draw as well. You can be getting proper voltage but your amp draw could be off.

Black = line hot, white = neutral, brown/brown = capacitor. Okay, here's another reach. What are the chances that the pressure switch has been replaced at some point... and it's not the right one? Perhaps a call to your friendly neighborhood distributor could produce an OEM part number for your unit. They will want your model number.

Pressure switch is fine it has been replaced and was ordered using my distributor and the furnace model number... as for the amp check how manny amps should I be drawing? Written in blower?

Yup. The name plate on the motor will list it's amp draw.

Reggie,
I have a Rheem Classic 90 plus 75k BTU. I am having the same problem as you. I am about to pull the blower out to check for a cracked heat exchanger. Replaced both pressure switch and draft unit. Does any one know what bad connection to Cap would do to fan speed. I suspect that is the problem but do not have enough knowledge of electric motor to make such a claim. BTW I did replace the Cap as well.