1. Does anyone know where I can get a wiring schematic for a 6216 Simplicty tractor? The parts manual shows some wiring parts but not detailed enough for my use. Local Simplicity dealer/repair shop does not have any. Don't know if simplicity manuf. Would give any from their archives.

2. I am putting in a B&S 26HP twin cylinder engine, Model: 446777-0126 and I connected the fuel cell wire and stater wire. Engine started up. Next step was to connect the kill wire to tractor wiring, but I did not get that far. The kill wire is a Y shaped going to each coil. Without the kill wire connected yet, the engine quit working, so I checked the spark. One cylinder was not sparking. I disconnected kill wire from the coil that was not sending spark and it started with both cylinders. I thought the kill wire might have a short, so I made a new one, but the same thing happened at the same coil. Could there be a problem with the coil and not the wire? Remember the kill wire as it is, is unconnected to the tractor wiring.

3. I am told, with the engine off, the govenor arm should be in wide open position. When starting it should go to idle. I noticed that to be true on the engine I took off and the engine on my other tractor. My new engine is that way also, however when I started it up after connecting fuel cell and starter wire, it would not idle. It stayed in full throttle. I tried moving the throttle bracket with my hand, but that did not change anything. I checked the setting of the govenor and it is set correctly. When I grab the governor arm and lift it will go to idle. The linkage will be against the idle screw at that point. If I let go of the govenor arm it will fall and move back to full throttle. There are two springs used in this system, one from the throttle bracket to the govenor and one from the govenor arm to hole which will hold the governor in open position. The springs are in the correct position, because I checked at a local dealer which has a similar Briggs engine on his lawnmower for sale. So my question is what would be the reason for the govenor arm not moving to idle when starting it up if the spring linkage is correct and the governor is set correctly?

Is Fuel cell and Stator really fuel cut solenoid and starter.

Fuel Cells are really expensive. A fuel cell barely able to power a laptop will run $5,000.

1. I don't

2. Something else is happening like unstripped ends
Getting someplace that they don't belong or the cover is shorting it out.

3. The position of the throttle linkage normally controls that. You can get no control or idle and anything in between. It MAY also be related to #1 (not sure).

Not sure of your engine, but:
Normally the throttle cable clamp is loosened and the engine placed on choke. Move the cable and not the linkage until the choke just closes and tighten the cable clamp.

In choke the throttle is usually wide open. Only when the lever is moved away from choke, should the springs be active. In choke, you get lots of fuel and virtually no air.
The governeror flap should be near the flywheel.
When the engine starts the flap moves away somewhat, throttleing back the engine.

In smaller engines, the throttle activates the kill switch. I would imagine in this one the ignition switch should be doing so.

While your playing, tie a rope such that the plug wires can be pulled off to stop the engine until you get the kill and idle circuits fixed.

The vanes of the flywheel typically push air out at higher speeds.

Sorry, I meant fuel solenoid

No cover currently on engine while testing it. Cover is made of plastic so I don't think the cover is the problem. If there is a short in the kill wire then wouldn't it kill both coils? If I disconnect one coil wire on this twin engine it will run. Since the kill wire is a Y connection, i.e. both coil wires going to the same single wire (before it goes to ign switch) it should prevent engine from starting.


Below you have described the way it should work:
In choke the throttle is usually wide open. Only when the lever is moved away from choke, should the springs be active. In choke, you get lots of fuel and virtually no air.
The governeror flap should be near the flywheel. When the engine starts the flap moves away somewhat, throttleing back the engine.

However mine will not throttle back the engine, therefore I was trying to figure out why. It appears the spring mechanisms are not working even though they are connected properly.

Thanks, MR

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Originally Posted by mroman59

sorry, I meant fuel solenoid

No cover currently on engine while testing it. Cover is made of plastic so I don't think the cover is the problem. If there is a short in the kill wire then wouldn't it kill both coils? If I disconnect one coil wire on this twin engine it will run. Since the kill wire is a Y connection, i.e. both coil wires going to the same single wire (before it goes to ign switch) it should prevent engine from starting.

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OK, Go to RadioShack and get two diodes Get two of these: 3-Amp Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com
The diodes will have a band on one end. Connect the bands together to the kill wire ground. Connect the other ends to each ignition module Kill terminal separately.

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Below you have described the way it should work:
In choke the throttle is usually wide open. Only when the lever is moved away from choke, should the springs be active. In choke, you get lots of fuel and virtually no air.
The governeror flap should be near the flywheel. When the engine starts the flap moves away somewhat, throttleing back the engine.

However mine will not throttle back the engine, therefore I was trying to figure out why. It appears the spring mechanisms are not working even though they are connected properly.

Thanks, MR

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It won't work UNLESS the outer tube of the throttle linkage is in the right place.

If you remove the throttle linkage and then move it by hand you should be able to see the "sweat spot". Watch the throttle plate and the choke. When it's jammed near the choke position you could have no control.

If you can, post a picture using "go advanced".

Thanks for you response. The previous kill wire had the Diodes in it. The diodes were at a Y connection like you have described. The diodes were covered with shrink-wrap like material for protection. This set-up was not working as I described previously, i.e with both ends connect to their respective coils (no. 1 and no. 2) the engine would not start and only one cylinder (no. 2) was receiving spark. When I disconnect the end from coil no. 1, the engine would start. By accident, I damaged this wire and diodes when I removed it for inspections, thinking there was a short. I talked to a lawnmower repair place and they said to make a new wire set-up without the diodes. He stated he did not know what the diodes were for in the first place. He stated he has wires pre-made, without diodes for engines that have problems like mine and uses them for repair. So, I made a wire set-up without he diodes and the engine behaved exactly the same way, i.e. always coil no. 1 will does not spark with the wire attached. This is even, when the lose end is in the wire harness and not connected to the ignition kill wire.

What is the purpose of the diodes? I will get some at radio shack and make it up like the original as you have described, if I understand you correctly. If necessary I will use "go advanced" to show a photo of set-up.

Once I get the kill wire working properly, I will attempt to work on the throttle linkage again. Not sure what you mean by "outer tube". When you say remove the throttle linkage, do you mean the spring from the throttle bracket to govenor arm or just the throttle cable to the throttle bracket? When you say move it by hand, are you referring to the throttle bracket or govenor ? I will try to post a photo of this Briggs engine set-up or give you a file for engine diagram parts. This may help so we are on the same terminology at least.

You said: Watch the throttle plate and the choke. When it's jammed near the choke position you could have no control.

If I have no control, what is the problem and how do you correct it?

MR

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mroman59

Thanks for you response. The previous kill wire had the Diodes in it. The diodes were at a Y connection like you have described. The diodes were covered with shrink-wrap like material for protection. This set-up was not working as I described previously, i.e with both ends connect to their respective coils (no. 1 and no. 2) the engine would not start and only one cylinder (no. 2) was receiving spark. When I disconnect the end from coil no. 1, the engine would start. By accident, I damaged this wire and diodes when I removed it for inspections, thinking there was a short. I talked to a lawnmower repair place and they said to make a new wire set-up without the diodes. He stated he did not know what the diodes were for in the first place. He stated he has wires pre-made, without diodes for engines that have problems like mine and uses them for repair. So, I made a wire set-up without he diodes and the engine behaved exactly the same way, i.e. always coil no. 1 will does not spark with the wire attached. This is even, when the lose end is in the wire harness and not connected to the ignition kill wire.

What is the purpose of the diodes? I will get some at radio shack and make it up like the original as you have described, if I understand you correctly.

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I guessing that one of them is bad. I don't know if you a multimeter with a diode test mode, or even a multimeter, so I will assume no

The diodes make a simple "or" gate.

If you take a single diode and connect it to the (kill pin) and ground, it will work in one direction only. The band side of the diode will be toward ground.

There is a good chance that one of your diodes are bad. The bad diode will kill the engine when inserted both ways.

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If necessary I will use "go advanced" to show a photo of set-up.


Once I get the kill wire working properly, I will attempt to work on the throttle linkage again. Not sure what you mean by "outer tube". When you say remove the throttle linkage, do you mean the spring from the throttle bracket to govenor arm or just the throttle cable to the throttle bracket? When you say move it by hand, are you referring to the throttle bracket or govenor ? I will try to post a photo of this Briggs engine set-up or give you a file for engine diagram parts. This may help so we are on the same terminology at least.

You said: Watch the throttle plate and the choke. When it's jammed near the choke position you could have no control.

If I have no control, what is the problem and how do you correct it?

MR

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I looked at an engine diagram, but I need the throttle/engine connection for your set up.

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I'm not sure what I mean either by "outer tube"

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USUALLY there is a stiff wire that activates the linkage which rides in a hollow flex tube. It's the fixing of the hollow tube, is where I believe the problems are.

99.99999% of the time the governor is not at fault.

Two things move the throttle:
1) The throttle
2) Moving the outer jacket that the throttle cable is in.

#2 is an adjustment.