Hi,

My toilet is 12 years old. Starting 1 month ago, there's a loud (hissing) noise coming from the water tank every time after I flush the toilet. I have attached an image of the type of my water tank, which I borrowed from a posting on your site.

This noise gradually stops as the water fills up. Lifting the ball slightly seems to lower the noise as well. I also notice that as the water is almost filled up, there's dripping from the part where I have a red arrow pointed at. Could you please help?

Many thanks.

W

Shut the water off under the tank and pop the lid. Remove the three screws and lift the float ball and stem assembly up and out. Pry out the washer and turn it over. Reseat it back firmly. Now hold your hand over the top of the open ballcock and have someone turn the water on to flush out the supply and ballcock body. Reassemble, making sure the small tube #5 is connected to the overflow tube, give it a flush. How's it sound now? If you still have a noise then we'll take a hard look at the angle stop, good luck.

John

Thanks a lot afaroo. I just tried... but there's no way I can unscrew! They are too tight. I will see if my mom can do a better job when she comes home tonight.

Another question I have is, if I leave it like this, is it likely that further problems will occur? Such as leaking? I live in a high rise so I am quite worried. Thanks again for your help.

Do this lift the lid, bind the green rod down a little bit to lower your water level it may help you stopping the noise and the drip,

After you bind the rod and the water tank is full check your water level it sholud be 1/2" to 3/4" below the wite over flow tube, thanks

John

Thanks. Actually, binding the green rod doesn't seem to make any difference. The water level (once the water is filled up) is currently about 2 - 3 inches below the overflow mark on the tube (7). Cheers.

If your water level is too low you will have a problem with float valve, read the following and adjust your water level before you do any thing else, in this case you need to bind the rod up little by little until you have a proper water level.

Adjusting the level of water in the toilet tank keeps your toilet flushing completely. The water level normally falls about 1 inch below the rim of the overflow tube. Lower levels don't allow the float ball to raise high enough to close the ball cock; a water level that is too high will continuously run, wasting water and forcing you to listen to the running water all day, good luck.

John

Thanks again. Sorry one more question. I am assuming that binding the rod means lifting it up/pushing it down with my hands. Is there a way to do that permanently? Thanks so much for your help again.

Hello wun-bun,

Hold the rod close to the fill valve and hold the rod with your other hand close to the ball and bind it up little by little until you get the proper water level it should be 3/4” to 1” under the rim of the over overflow tube and make sure that the small fill tube is connected to the overflow tub, if you be able to adjust the rod and it works this will be a permanent fix, also some fill valves have a screw on top of the fill valve where the arm is connected you can do some adjustment with that too let me know if your has a screw like that, see the image below and it will give and idea which screw am I talking about, if this will not fix your problem then I will suggest to replace your fill valve with the new type, (Fluidmaster400) good luck.

John

Thanks so much for the detailed instructions John! Really appreciate your help. I am going to try it out when I get home tonight. Thanks!

It's my pleasure to help, let me know if you need any thing else, good luck.

John

Hi again John,

Nothing seems to make any difference, so I decided find a plumber to replace the components, and shut down the main switch (not sure if that's what it's called, it's the one that turns counter-/clockwise, that goes from the wall to the bottom of the tank) for the mean time. The weird thing is, once I've turned it off, water still goes into the tank but very slowly, and it starts to leak from the switch. However, it stops leaking when I turn it back on... I thought it's supposed to be the other way around.

Maybe there's something wrong with the switch as well?

Thanks again.

W.

Hi Wun_bun,

Did you really adjust the rod and nothing happened and the water level didn’t go up?
The switch you talking about is called angle valve (Water Shut off valve) this valve shuts off the water to tank, a loose washer at the stem of the valve will also cause the noise, if you be able to replace the washer it is very simple, just shut off your house main water shut off valve, remove the packing nut (turn it counter clock Wise) and the stem you will see a black washer at the end remove and replace it, once again check your water level to be at correct level, see the picture, Thanks.

John

Thanks again John. That's very helpful. This would explain the noise and the leak. I will go to Home Depot to find the washer and try to replace it. Looks like it's something I can handle :)

Oh yes, the water level did change as I adjusted the rod, but that didn't stop the noise.

Cheers.

Hi wun_bun

I would sugget to remove the stem and take it with you to the store to get the correct washer, please don't forget to shut off the water at the main valve other wise you will have a good shower, good luck.

John

Thanks for the reminder. That's a great suggestion. I will do that :)

Just my two cents. Would be just as easy to replace complete stop. Then replace fill valve. This will most likely guarantee a fix. Good luck and let us know how things work out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

Just my two cents. Would be just as easy to replace complete stop. Then replace fill valve. this will most likely gaurantee a fix. Good luck and let us know how things work out.

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Mygirsdad,

I agree with you by replacing the angle valve and the fill valve will be a guarantee fix, but I walk her/him step by step, the water level was way below the critical point after adjusting the rod it is OK now, the next step is the loose washer at the end of the stem and it is easy to replace, that's why I suggested to replace that, I could have asked from the beginning to replace the angle valve, the fill valve and the flush valve and the problem would have been 100% guarantied, I went the easy steps and cost saving, Thanks

Regards,
John

I agree John. You have given great advice. I let my plumbing mind get ahead of my helping mind. I was in the mind set of being on a job, instead of helping the user fix it themselves. If I were on a job, I would have replaced these parts to avoid a call back, but we don't lose money on callback here. You are exactly correct in your advice. Easy and cheap. This is what we are here for, sorry I let my thinking stray for a moment. Take care.

Thanks again John and mygirlsdad77. I printed out John's instructions and was ready to do the job myself, but... I couldn't even switch off the main water supply :(, the switch just wouldn't turn. So I decided to just call a plumber. I had to wait for 4 days, and the plumber did replace everything (the valve and most of the components inside the tank) for me, and charged me $140.

Cheers for the help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wun_bun

I couldn't even switch off the main water supply :(, the switch just wouldn't turn. So I decided to just call a plumber.
Cheers for the help!

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Thanks for keeping us in the loop and I am happy that you are over with, we tried to help and save some money for you but it didn't .

You still have a problem with your main shut off valve and it needs to fix just in case you would have a water leak inside the house and want to shut off the water, you should have asked the plumber to look in to it, wish a very happy Holidays, Thanks.

John