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-   -   1992 Honda civic EX won't start (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=287473)

  • Dec 2, 2008, 12:18 PM
    tongmz
    1992 Honda civic EX won't start
    About a week ago a gave my honda a jump stater it did stater, later I realized that running it for about an hour wasn't good enough for the battery to be fully charge, I took the battery out to recharge it with my battery charger, when doing this, I unhooked the red positive post first my first mistake, next day I had the battery fully charge put back on started my honda, no spark at all, I went to get an ignition module from junk yard put it on car still won't start I turned ignition on, engine light goes out after 2 seconds is it a good sign?when I turn ignition on I can hear the fuel pump coming on is it another good sign? Is it the coil the problem, or the ECU, when I'm cranking the engine the engine light stays off can you help me any expert? Thank you
  • Dec 2, 2008, 12:24 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Perform test, in Sections A and B, below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html
  • Dec 2, 2008, 12:24 PM
    this8384

    Disconnecting the positive terminal first isn't going to affect anything negatively; I'm not sure why you feel that may have caused any damage.

    Have you load tested your battery after charging it? Running it for an hour should have been more than enough for it to regain its charge.

    Have you checked for diagnostic codes even though the light isn't staying on?
  • Dec 2, 2008, 12:53 PM
    tongmz
    I haven't check for any codes yet, but I though could be the ignition coil or maybe I picked a bad ignater from the junk yard
  • Dec 2, 2008, 01:20 PM
    this8384

    A bad part from the junk yard is definitely a possibility. It seems odd that you developed a no-spark condition simply from removing and reinstalling the battery but I've seen much stranger things happen/
  • Dec 2, 2008, 01:37 PM
    tongmz

    I did an ignition coil test it showed 1.1 ohms on the primary winding resistance between A and B, specs. Should be between 0.6-0.8 what do you think? On the secondary seems OK it is 14.90 ohms which specs. Is about 13.200-19.800
  • Dec 2, 2008, 01:50 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    I recommend replacing the ignitor and coil every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. My experience has been to place little faith in bench testing either of these components.
  • Dec 2, 2008, 01:54 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Since it sounds like your CEL and fuel pump are operating properly, you are on the right track to focus on the distributor. Ignitors and coils are the most problematic components on Hondas.
  • Dec 2, 2008, 02:21 PM
    tongmz

    I will let you know with the coil replaced to see if the problem gets solve
  • Dec 2, 2008, 02:25 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You stand a good chance that it will start.

    P.S. You were right to realize you should always remove the negative battery cable first and reattach it last.
  • Dec 2, 2008, 02:32 PM
    this8384

    While the negative is the ground wire, it doesn't damage anything if you disconnect the positive first.
  • Dec 2, 2008, 09:19 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You may also want to test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145
  • Dec 5, 2008, 07:20 PM
    tongmz

    Thank you guys and thank you txgreasemonkey Colossians 3:23-24, again I went to the junk yard and I found a brand new ignition coil guess what : " the ignition coil was the problem" after I put it on,I cranked it, there, the engine is back to work good spark runs beautifully. Thaaaaaaaaank you
  • Dec 6, 2008, 11:25 AM
    this8384

    Glad you found the problem :)

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