I just installed a new Wellsaver LPT20 tank in my basement for my water system. Initially worked fine, still works great until we try to do two loads of laundry in a row. At the second load when the water pressure in the tank drops down to the cut off pressure, the switch doesn't activate to turn the pump on. Is there an adjustment I can make on the control box for this?
Thanks in advance for your time and your help with this.

Are you saying the contacts don't close or that they close but the pump won't come on? Have you adjusted the bladder tank pressure to correspond to the cut-in point in the pump control box? What is your cut in and cut out points in the control box? How old is the control box? Answer and I'll get back ASAP. Regards, Tom

Thanks for the quick response Tom, and on a Sunday!
The tank and control box are brand new, June 6th. The bladder pressure is set at 28psi, the tank switches are set to 30 and 50.
It seems like when you open a sink line, use a little water at a time, it swtiches on when the tank drops below 30 psi. But when you open a big line and it drops to 30 rapidly, the switch doesn't make contact. If that makes any sense.
That's about all I can tell you so far, thanks again.
Joe B

Hey Joe,

I was signing off when I saw your post. Your control box and bladder tank have the correct settings so no problem there.
The only thing you can do is open up the control box, (see image) and then attempt to make it act up. Watch the breaker points in the breaker box and let me know what goes down. Regards, Tom

Here's what happens, let me know if this makes any sense, I hope so.
When I open a faucet line in my basement and drain the tank pressure slowly, when the pressure gets to 30 or 32 psi, the contacts close and the pump kicks on and recharges the tank.
If I open the water system drain valve, a 3/4 inch valve and drain line and the tank drains quickly, at the same spot, 30 to 32psi, the lower switch drops but the contacts don't close to turn the pump on. By the lower plate/switch I mean the one that drops down onto the selector lever on the outside of the control box that you use to reset the system. That one drops, but the points/contacts on the side do not close and make contact with the points/contacts on the side. I tried many, many times and again, when the tank drops slowly, it works fine every time. Only when it drops fast does it not work right.
Did I make any sense at all? I will owe you some cold ones if this gets fixed, thanks guy.
Joe B

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Originally Posted by xexman44

Here's what happens, let me know if this makes any sense, I hope so.
When I open a faucet line in my basement and drain the tank pressure slowly, when the pressure gets to 30 or 32 psi, the contacts close and the pump kicks on and recharges the tank.
If I open the water system drain valve, a 3/4 inch valve and drain line and the tank drains quickly, at the same spot, 30 to 32psi, the lower switch drops but the contacts don't close to turn the pump on. By the lower plate/switch I mean the one that drops down onto the selector lever on the outside of the control box that you use to reset the system. That one drops, but the points/contacts on the side do not close and make contact with the points/contacts on the side. I tried many, many times and again, when the tank drops slowly, it works fine every time. Only when it drops fast does it not work right.
Did I make any sense at all? I will owe you some cold ones if this gets fixed, thanks guy.
Joe B

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Hey Joe,

Do you have a Square D Pressure Switch like the one shown? Because they don't have a reset feature. Please give me the brand name and model number of the control box that you have. Regards, Tom

Some pump controls have a protector switch on them that will not let the contacts close if you are losing large amounts of Water. It assumes that you have a broken pipe or something of the sort. These are mostly used in barns and stalls where livestock could cause damage.

Thanks Letmetellu,

I've never run across one of those pump controls, possibility because I live and work in a urban area. You gave a good explanation of what just might be the cause of his problem. Good work! Tom

My control box looks identical to the one in your picture, except that it has a selector lever on the side of it. Here is a picture of the box housing with the positions on it and you can see the lever(if you look hard enough) on the control box.
If it is the pressure drop problem, what can I do about that? An adjustment somewhere? It only happens when the washing machine is filling up, it shouldn't really happen then under normal oprations should it?
Thanks again guys.
JB

Please give me the brand name and model number of the control box that you have. I'm not familiar with the control box that you have. That doesn't look like any reset I've ever seen is there a special set up I should know about? Is the pump on the surface or is it a submersible? Have a great Forth, Tom

I can't find a number anyplace on the box or in the paperwork. It is the one that came with the tank from Lowe's. It might be on the bottom and I can't get to that now. It is identical to the picture you sent, contacts, everything is the same. With the addition of the on/off switch.
I will call the company tomorrow and see what they say to do. I appreciate everybody's help with this though.
JB

Hey Joe I bought the same set-up and have the same problem. Have been messing with it all day. I need help also... Thanks a bunch... Jerry

I think I found out that my pressure switch wasn't adjusted right. I thought it was but when I went out and bought a new switch, I had to readjust the contacts and when I did, the on/off switches started working right. I really thought I had the right pressure dialed in there but I was off a few pounds worth and it was just enough to make the switch not work right.
Hope that helps.
JB