I'm replacing the builder's ge dishwasher with a stainless steel LG dishwasher. I removed the GE and there is a flexible drain hose that I took off it. The dishwasher is on a wall perpendicular to the sink wall. The flexible drain hose runs into a hole in the back of the cabinet next to the dishwasher. From that point the hose or hoses are not visible, go around a corner, through the bottom of another cabinet and then appear under the sink base cabinet as a black rubber hose that then is attached to the sink drain through a T fitting. The GE hose connects in some hidden spot to this black rubber hose.

The LG hose is attached to the dishwasher, underneath, hidden behind a plate. The end of this flex line has adjustable sizes of 1", 3/4", and 5/8", you cut it off to suit.

Do I need to couple the two flexible drain hoses, or do I figure out how to remove the GE hose and connect the LG hose to the black rubber hose? If so, do I pull on the GE hose and push on the black rubber hose under the sink until I see the connection, or do I pull on the black rubber hose until I see the GE hose and then disconnect that, and attach the LG. I'm afraid I won't be able to snake the new hose back around that corner to where the dishwasher opening is in the cabinetry. Any suggestion greatly appreciated.

If you can you need to pull the GE hose back to the point that you can connect the new hose to the black hose going to the sink drain. If while pulling the new hose back under the capinet it will not go then pull it out again and tape the connection with duct tape, tryong to make it as smooth as possible, this may hide alll of the clamps and ends of the hose that might have been catching, the smooth connection may make it go where it is suppose to.
If this and all other things fail you can always run the drain line above the floor of the cabinet, it will be exposed but at the very back of the cabinet and should not create any problems.

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Originally Posted by letmetellu

If you can you need to pull the GE hose back to the point that you can connect the new hose to the black hose going to the sink drain. If while pulling the new hose back under the capinet it will not go then pull it out again and tape the connection with duct tape, tryong to make it as smooth as possible, this may hide alll of the clamps and ends of the hose that might have been catching, the smooth connection may make it go where it is suppose to.
If this and all other things fail you can always run the drain line above the floor of the cabinet, it will be exposed but at the very back of the cabinet and should not create any problems.

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Thanks for the help. I will push on the rubber hose from the connection under the sink and see if I can get access to the connection with the GE drain hose. If needed, I'll take the rubber hose off the T fitting and then push it further into the cabinet, until I can access the connection with the GE hose, then remove the clamps and attach the new LG drain hose. Thanks for your help.

New DW came with 5 feet of 5/8" discharge hose. You will need to go to Home Depot and purchase black, 5/8" hose, and long enough to reach the sink drain.

Also, Buy 1/2" x 6" brass nipple and 2-s.s. clamps. Insert the nipple into LG hose and new black hose. Secure with clamps. Connect to the Branch T fitting at your sink drain.

It is a good practice to create high loop at the discharge run. Run the hose slowly up hill until you reach sink cabinet, then go as high as you can go, create loop, attach top of the loop to upper part of your kitchen cabinet and drop it to the drain.

I like Milos answer! I would only add one thing, Instead of coupling onto the hose I would purchase enough reinforced 5/8ths DW hose to run from the washer to the branch tailpiece in the sink.
I especially like the fact that Milo recommended a high loop air gap, (see image) instead of a counter top one. Growler would have fought to the death to install a counter top air gap. Great response Milo! Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

I like Milos answer! I would only add one thing, Instead of coupling onto the hose I would purchase enough reinforced 5/8ths DW hose to run from the washer to the branch tailpiece in the sink.
I especially like the fact that Milo recommended a high loop air gap, (see image) instead of a counter top one. Growler would have fought to the death to install a counter top air gap. Great response Milo!! Tom

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Milos answers were invaluable, as were the other comments. I was able to slide the 5/8" black hose further toward the dishwasher after detaching it from the sink drain. The hook up was a charm at that point, especially since there was a 5/8" copper stub joining the two hoses which I was able to reuse with the new LG drain hose. I used flex hose for the supply to the 90 degree elbow. My only remaining problem is that even after using teflon on the connection into the dishwasher valve I have a small drip, and I've tried this twice. I may go with some sealing paste instead of the teflon and see if that works. I'll let you all know, and thanks for all the solid advice.

You may not need any, just clean the threads install the line and tightened good, if you still want to use any thing, Teflon tape works well for some fittings, but not plastic. Always use pipe dope for plastic connections. TFE pipe dope is good for all applications!