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-   -   Need to know what exactly is wrong with my brakes? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=285917)

  • Nov 28, 2008, 05:39 AM
    adam_89
    Need to know what exactly is wrong with my brakes?
    I was wondering if someone could give me a general idea of what I would need to replace on my brakes. I drive a '93 Ford Explorer and yesterday while driving I pressed my brakes and the pedal went to the floor and I didn't stop. When I got to where I was going right up the road I had someone press the pedal and brake fluid gushed out. I took the tire off and checked the bleeder valve but it was dry. Then I had the pedal pressed again and it gushed out around the piston. So, I was wondering if it was the whole brake caliper that I needed to replace or exactly what I need to replace? I was going to call around and price it but I wanted another opinion before I replaced the whole caliper.

    Thanks!
  • Nov 28, 2008, 05:42 AM
    adam_89
    How to Bleed Brakes?
    I was also wondering concerning my other question, how to bleed brakes? It's been a long time since I have done it and I can't remember how to do it. I know you start the farthest away from the master cylinder, but I don't remember what exactly you are supposed to do, or how you do it.

    Thanks!
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:33 AM
    adam_89

    Can someone please help me?
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:33 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Sounds like the caliper's seal failed, likely due to the brake fluid not being changed every two years. Crud builds up inside and abrates the seal. Best course of action is to install a rebuilt or new caliper. You are lucky a serious accident was avoided.

    Bleed the brakes in this order: RR, LF, LR, and RF. Use Valvoline Brake Fluid, which is HBH rated (heavy duty) and approved for use in all Ford vehicles. This link should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post619000

    Be sure to have the other calipers/wheel cylinders inspected for leaks. This would be a good time to replace pads/shoes (go with Motorcraft), have emergency brake adjusted, and lubricate caliper pins with silicone grease.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:42 AM
    adam_89

    Thanks a lot. I didn't even know that you had to change brake fluid that often. That's good to know though. I already bought a new caliper and brake pads this morning. Now, I just need to replace it. I thought it was the farthest from the master, then the second farthest then so on. Like in this case. RR, LR, RF, LF. I am probably mistaken. How is it that you bleed them though, I know you have the valve, but I don't remember how you press the pedal, and the correct process. Do you follow what I mean? Thanks Again!
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:48 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Split braking system (for safety):

    . RR and LF are on one circuit.

    . LR and RF are on the other circuit.

    You should completely bleed one circuit at a time. Buy the CalVan One-Man Bleeder I reference in the link--you'll be glad you did. If you can't find one, buy one of the other one-man products on the market from your local auto parts store or Sears (Lisle).
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:52 AM
    adam_89

    The CalVan one-man bleeder is in the link you gave me a minute ago? Does that mean, one man can do it by himself? Sorry for the dumb question. My dad has been a mechanic for about 38 years, and I haven't seem to pick up much from him, but I wish I would have. I appreciate your help. I might still need help though!
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:57 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    One person can bleed the complete brake system in 45 minutes, first time around, with the CalVan One-Man Bleeder.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 07:58 AM
    adam_89

    Also, can I bleed the brakes by myself? You don't need 2 people? One at the brake pedal and one at the valve?
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:01 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    No, one person can do everything. The CalVan product has a one-way check valve that prevents air from being sucked into the system, when the brake pedal is depressed (by hand) 14 times. Buy a quart of brake fluid.

    It's best to use flare-nut wrenches to separate brake lines nuts, in order not to distort them as they are being removed.

    Also, buy a battery squeeze bulb ($3.00) to suck the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir (to a safe level), then refill with fresh fluid and cap it off.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:21 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    It's very important to clean and grease the caliper pins with silicone grease. The calipers can lock up, otherwise.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:29 AM
    adam_89

    OK, thanks a lot. I will do that. I will get some grease off my dad. Hopefully all goes well!
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:30 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Okay.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:43 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    . Tighten front caliper bolts 23 to 28 lb-ft.

    . Tighten brake hose-to-caliper bolt 31 to 39 lb-ft.

    Apply anti-squeal compound to brake pad shims. Attention to detail makes a big difference on brake jobs.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:46 AM
    reed_tyler87

    I would recommend you bringing them to my garage and us looking at them...
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:46 AM
    adam_89

    All right, thanks a lot
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:48 AM
    reed_tyler87

    Where is your car now?
  • Nov 28, 2008, 08:58 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    From a safety standpoint, you need to replace the pads on both front calipers.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 10:51 AM
    adam_89
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by reed_tyler87 View Post
    where is your car now?

    My car is at my sister house. I'm going to work on it tonight! Do you want to come help me Mr. Reed? I could use the help if you want to.
  • Nov 28, 2008, 10:52 AM
    adam_89
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey View Post
    From a safety standpoint, you need to replace the pads on both front calipers.

    Yes! Thank you! I have already bought the pads for the right and the left.

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