Ask Me Help Desk - Low water pressure solution?

The home I own has been plagued by very low water pressure for some time. To the level that if you use a 2nd water appliance you pretty much have no water coming out of the other one. So I've had a plumber come over to investigate things, and we found that the pressure where the city line enters the house is VERY weak (we turned off the valve at the main, disconnected the pipe right after, and watched the as there was nominal pressure when the valve was turned back on.)

I was quoted just under 8K for replacing the (galvanized) line to the city source. But there was also an alternate solution suggested which consisted of a pressure booster system along side a precharged tank. This solution came in at around $1300 installed.

My question is basically whether that's a good solution and whether the installed price is reasonable. The suggested pressure booster is the Flotec FP4815 Pressuremate Pump (the link goes to one for $340 at Amazon) and I'm not sure what the exact model of the tank is, but I think it's about an 82 gallon one. It all seems a little steep for a house which has the following for water fixtures:
1 bathtub w/ shower
2 toilets
1 washing machine
1 dishwasher
1 kitchen sink
2 bathroom sinks

Is there a better solution?

Thanks for your response.

Your galvanized water service tells me that you have a older home with galvanized water piping. Yes the pump can increase pressureanother 40 PSI coming into your home what it can't do is increase the volume coming into your home. This means that if you make multiple draws at the same time such as doing laundry at the same time as drawing a bath and flushing a toilet that the pressure tank will use its stored pressure and the only source feeding the house is the old galvanized water service which is going to run out of volume real soon.
Another thing to factor in is the house piping itself. How bad is the interior piping? If the water service is clogged with rust cutting down on the volume what's the rest of the pipes like? Can your plumber guarantee that replacing the water service will solve all your pressure problems or will he just guarantee pressure to the house stop? Can he guarantee that installing a pressure booster that you won't run out of water like in the scenario I set up earlier? Before I laid out any money I would want some guarantees in writing that solution the plumber came up with will work to my satisfaction. Good luck and please keep me informed. Tom

Gee, how long is your water service ? That quote sounds excessive...

Be careful with increasing pressure. You have old galv. Pipes. They may not be able to handle the new pressure... Also, I don't think you have "pressure problem" . Most likely, you have volume problem. It is very common with galv. Pipes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedball1

Your galvanized water service tells me that you have a older home with galvanized water piping. Yes the pump can increase pressureanother 40 PSI coming into your home what it can't do is increase the volume coming into your home. This means that if you make multiple draws at the same time such as doing laundry at the same time as drawing a bath and flushing a toilet that the pressure tank will use its stored pressure and the only source feeding the house is the old galvanized water service which is gonna run outta volume real soon.
Another thing to factor in is the house piping itself. How bad is the interior piping? If the water service is clogged with rust cutting down on the volume what's the rest of the pipes like? Can your plumber guarantee that replacing the water service will solve all your pressure problems or will he just guarantee pressure to the house stop? Can he guarantee that installing a pressure booster that you won't run outta water like in the scenario I set up earlier? Before I laid out any money I would want some guarantees in writing that solution the plumber came up with will work to my satisfaction. Good luck and please keep me informed. Tom

I'm guessing that it is a volume issue, as Milo also seems to believe below. I was going to run a pressure test (assuming the hardware store folks can point me in the right direction to the right pressure gauge to use. I've got the Y connection.) Based on that, I'm guessing it will come back showing that pressure is within range.

If it is a volume issue, would simply installing a precharged pressure tank be the way to go (and skipping the pressure booster?)

I think I mentioned in my original post that we shut off the valve at the incoming main, disconnected the pipe, turned the valve back on and watched as the water flowed out and down (similarly to a water slide at a pool, I suppose.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

Gee, how long is your water service ? That quote sounds excessive...

Be careful with increasing pressure. You have old galv. pipes. They may not be able to handle the new pressure...Also, I don't think you have "pressure problem" . Most likely, you have volume problem. It is very common with galv. pipes.

As I mentioned above, that seems more likely the correct way of describing it. Thanks for a validating opinion.

Quote:

I was going to run a pressure test (assuming the hardware store folks can point me in the right direction to the right pressure gauge to use.

Purchase a hose bib pressure gage,)(see image) and you'll be all set to check your house pressure. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedball1

Purchase a hose bib pressure gage,)(see image) and you'll be all set to check your house pressure. Good luck, Tom

Does it matter which fixture is tested? Testing an outdoor faucet gave a reading of about 42 PSI. Is that good enough to go with only a precharged tank and not the pressure booster?

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaverdalebiker

Does it matter which fixture is tested? Testing an outdoor faucet gave a reading of about 42 PSI. Is that good enough to go with only a precharged tank and not the pressure booster?

Thanks!

If you have pressure regulator, you should test behind the regulator. Garden hose valve can be connected on high pressure side giving you false reading. Test at washer or water heater.