I have a Garage with the bottom plate (2x4 wall) rotted. I have an issue with water shedding on the backside of garage that I'm currently fixing with a couple of french drains. However the bottom plates of this wall has to be replaced. All the studs are exposed (No Rock) is there anything I can do to remove this plate? Like shore up the wall and cut the plate loose and slp in a new one? Your expert suggestion appreciated. Thanks

Fizz

The fix would be different depending on whether this is a load bearing wall or if it is not. Do you know how to tell?

[QUOTE=wildandblue;1348320]the fix would be different depending on whether this is a load bearing wall or if it is not. Do you know how to tell?[/QUOTE

Yes it is a Load bearing wall

Normally you just build a temporary 2x4 wall a foot or so inside the existing wall along the whole length of the wall. It has to be tight from floor to ceiling, because the garage will sag down on to it when you take out the outside wall. It does not need to be nailed into either the floor or ceiling - friction fit is fine.

Then replace the outside wall using the inside wall to temporarily hold the weight. When doing this, remove the outside wall slowly one stud at a time to ensure everything is being supported OK... and start rebuilding as you go so that a minimum amount of wall is removed at any one time. If the existing studs are not completely rotten, then cut off the rotten bits near the bottom and sister a new 2x4 beside it from floor to ceiling to carry the weight. (This will hopefully minimize damage to the outside wall finish)

Yes that sounds simple enough... but be sure to correct whatever is causing your sill to rot in the first place, termites, water, an untreated sill on top of cement, or etc. or you will find yourself paying again for this repair in a short time.

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Originally Posted by rtw_travel

Normally you just build a temporary 2x4 wall a foot or so inside the existing wall along the whole length of the wall. It has to be tight from floor to ceiling, because the garage will sag down on to it when you take out the outside wall. It does not need to be nailed into either the floor or ceiling - friction fit is fine.

Then replace the outside wall using the inside wall to temporarily hold the weight. When doing this, remove the outside wall slowly one stud at a time to ensure everything is being supported OK... and start rebuilding as you go so that a minimum amount of wall is removed at any one time. If the existing studs are not completely rotten, then cut off the rotten bits near the bottom and sister a new 2x4 beside it from floor to ceiling to carry the weight. (This will hopefully minimize damage to the outside wall finish)

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Yeah I understand all that. However what I need to remove is just the bottom PLATE, nothing more.

This is how you remove the bottom plate. You won't get it out without trimming the 2x4's off it... which means you need to support the wall as I described.

... and if the plate has water damage and is rotten, then the bottom of the 2x4 wall will be too. .

All sounds good, I think I would try and use a sawzall with a thin metal cutting blade, and carefully running between the stud and plate and cut the nails through and slip the plate out. Be sure and temp support the wall as outlined above before starting.

Use a treated wood new plate and slip it in. If you have any slack, most lumber yards sell metal shims, and you could drive one below the plate, right where each stud is to get a tight fit.

Good luck Roger

Yes if there is rot in the plate the mold or dry rot spores can spread from the sort of OK looking parts into the new wood you are adding. Better to go with removing anything that looks suspicious rather than just the completely rotten parts only.

Attach a 2x4 or better yet a 2x6 to the studs about 3 foot off the floor. Attach with screws to each stud. If you have an adjacent wall run this plate around the corner about two studs. Use this "jacking plate" to jack up wall. Raise the wall at least 1/8", if you can get it up 1/4", that would be better. The new plate, being treated and still wet, will be thicker than the old plate. Jack up wall and put a 2x4 prop under the plate at every other stud. If you have access to the bottom plate from the outside, put props directly under the jacking plate. If you don't have access from the other side, attach the new plate to the studs about 6-8 " off the floor with a couple of screws. That way it will be behind the props and up out of your way when cutting out the old plate.

After jacking up the wall, hammer the old plate down to create a small crack between the studs and the plate.
Use sawsall (reciprocating saw) to cut nails. Cut up old plate and remove. You will need enough room between the bottom of the studs and the props for the new plate to lay flat to get it in. Slide new plate into place and lower wall. Nail plate to concrete floor with cut nails and a heavy hammer (4lb sledge) or shoot with power hammer. Toenail studs to new plate.

If jacking plate tends to pull away from studs while jacking, scab on a short length of 2x4 to studs above plate to take the pressure.

That explanation from our expert was absolutely free, and suitable for framing. That's why I love AskMeHelpDesk!!