:confused: just got a 96 honda civic ex auto from this guy that couldn't get it started... I got it for cheap... my question is why does it just crank but won't start... he told me he was driving it and it just died on him... he replaced the whole distributer... I don't know if it's the relay,map sensor ,fuel pump?? Please help.. I do know where to start?? :-(

You likely got a steal! Perform the tests, in Sections A and B below, and you'll love your new purchase even more, once you get it running:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, I would focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil. The previous owner may have installed an inferior aftermarket distributor. We have had many new aftermarket distributors not work on Hondas.

If there are no codes being thrown, the problem is likely distributor-related. There's a good shot replacing the ICM and coil will solve the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

You should have the car back on the road in no time.

The whole distributer was replaced with an oem one from junk yard... any othr options

Go through all of the tests in Sections A and B, beginning by checking all under-dash and under-hood fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Even though it was an OEM distributor housing, I bet the ICM and/or the coil are bad.

Ill explain exactly what I experienced
Ok: when I turn the key to on the engine light goes on and turns off in 2 second.. and I could hear the fuel pump and the click from the main relay... and it cranks but don't catch... I check for spark on all four wire and I have spark... what are the chances that I could be my main relay or my computer...

Since the CEL comes on and goes out normally, the odds are it is NOT main relay or ECM-related. Even more so, I suspect the distributor. ICMs and coils are very problematic on Hondas. It's possible to have spark, but it doesn't spark at the right time, if there's a problem with the ICM or distributor housing. AutoZone can test ICMs for free.

I recommend replacing the ICM, coil, and main relay, however, on all Hondas that have 120,000 miles or 10 years on them.

So I should take off my whole distributer to auto zone and have them check it..? I'm not really clear on the distributer? So I don't have to get a new one just replace the coil... sorry to ask this but what does the ICM.. WHERE is it and what do I take to auto zone..?

So I still replace the main relay..? OK what is the ICM.. COIL?? IM SORRY FOR THIS...

If you got a really, really good deal on the car, I would replace the distributor with a new, Genuine Honda distributor. It will come with a new Ignition Control Module and coil. Most Honda distributors go out around 90,000 miles, due to bearing failure. If you replace the whole distributor and main relay, you will likely restore like-new performance and reliability to the car. Shop online and get the best price you can for these components.

You may want to get an experienced friend or mechanic to help you with the work.

I'm going over my friend s house now to put my main relay on his car to see if his car starts that way ill know if it's the main relay.. He has the same car same year... is this a good idea?? And then I'm going to take my coil to auto zone to get it check ill keep updated.. ill sigh on tonight and let you know what the results were... ok...

AutoZone can usually test ICMs, not coils. Still, I have known of many ICMs that AutoZone has tested and said were okay that ended up being bad. That's why I would go new. Since your CEL comes on and goes out after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, I wouldn't pull the main relay out at this point. I'm pretty certain your problem is solely with the distributor. If there are no codes being thrown, and you put a gun to my head and said you have one chance to diagnose what's wrong, I would say replace the ICM and coil. Replacing ICMs and coils is bread and butter business for most Honda dealers--they replace many every day.

Alternatively, if your friend has the same engine, install his distributor in your car.

I called them and they said they can't test the distributer only the coil... mmm ill call another autozone... so do I take apart my distributer or no what do I need to test

Follow the link I gave you on how to replace the ICM and coil. Remove the coil first from the distributor, then the ICM. Most AZO stores can test ICMs on their Well's Machine. Again, I don't place much faith in bench testing these components, since I've seen many instances where they test okay but don't work. Now, I prefer to recommend that people just replace the ICM and coil. ICMs have sophisticated computer chips inside and they, along with coils, get destroyed by heat. Be sure to read about applying heat-transfer silicone grease to the back of the ICM.

Yeah the icm is $101 the ignition coil is$89 total $198 a distributer at auto zone is $209 might as well get the new one... ill get it done and get back to you... hope this fixs it... ill let you know...

Okay. That solution will be easier for you. Be sure to mark the distributor housing and mount, before you remove it, in order that the timing will be fairly close when you install the new one. This link will tell you what you need to do:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

What you mean a line housing and mount I read the link but I don't get it

Take a metal ruler and awl and mark a line across the top of the distributor base mount (above top mounting bolt) and the corresponding point on the engine. Then, mark the new distributor base mount and align the two marks, when you install the new distributor. This will ensure the timing is very close.

What can happen if the timing is wrong