I have a Kenmore Dishwasher Model #665 15779. It was working fine the other day and now it doesn't work at all. No lights in the display or anything either. I checked for power at the main connection and it is there. I opened up the front panel and checked the door switch and that appears to be working properly (continuity through both switches when switch is depressed, no continuity when switches are open). I get power all the way into the control module (part #9744031, new replacement is part #8530929). My next guess is that the control module needs replacement, but I don't know how to tell for sure. I've read a part specific note that I should check the thermal fuse before replacing the module, but I can't identify this fuse on the board. Any ideas or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? Thanks for the help.

Ok, I've located the thermal fuse and it has continuity. I get 122 volts to the power input spade on the control board. I've removed the control board and looked it over, but I didn't find anything that looked bad. I didn't see any burnt out traces on the board. I guess I'll try replacing the board unless anyone has other suggestions. It's a $100 part, but I can return it if it doesn't fix the dishwasher. I guess I'll have to actually WASH the dishes until the part gets in.

If you have 120 volts going into the control board, and it won't do anything, it's possible you have a bad control board. But I think you could also have a bad touchpad. That model number doesn't come up on the Sears site, so I can't be for sure which dishwasher you have, but if they are willing to take the part back after you install it (very rare and unusual) you're not really out anything for the guess except some clean hands. Let me know if you have any more questions. You might double check the model to make sure it's complete, as Kenmore model numbers are usually longer than that.

Thanks for the reply. I ordered the control board, so hopefully that works. If not, I'll try the touch panel. I ordered the part from Sears and they have a 90 day return policy for the part. If the control board isn't the problem, I shouldn't have a problem sending it back. I discovered later that the model number I posted wasn't the complete number, only the stocking number. The actual model number had another five digits, but I don't have them with me right now. Thanks again.

Applguy, thanks again for your response.

I ordered the board "priority" through Sears' 1-800-4-MY HOME with a delivery date of 8 June (three days later) and WOW, the control board got here 21 hours after I placed the order... amazing. Five minutes after opening the box, I had a working dishwasher again.

Since it might help someone else out if they run into a similar issue, here's my part ordering story. My first call was to Sears' Parts Direct number that was on the back of the dishwasher manual. I gave them the part number that was on the parts breakdown (#9744031). They said they didn't have the part and told me to call the 1-800-4-MY-HOME number and try ordering it from them. So I called that number and the lady told me that the part was only listed as "serviceable" and didn't have a replacement (but it could be serviced by a Sears repair center). She put me on hold to look into why there wasn't a replacement. She came back on the line and told me she found an alternate replacement part. Since I wasn't sure if I wanted to order the $105 part (not knowing for sure if that was the broken part) I asked her for the part number. She told me she couldn't give it to me, one of their rules apparently. I said I'd call back if I decided to order the part. I checked online by searching for the original part number and got a few hits that led me to an alternate replacement part made by whirlpool (#8530929). I searched for that part online and the average price was about $100. When I finally decided to order the part, I went with Sears because they said I could return it if it wasn't the problem. I called them to order and spoke to the first salesman. He said the part was only "serviceable" and couldn't be replaced. I told him of my previous call and asked him to look into it. He put me on hold and came back to tell me that there was no alternate part for replacement (so why did the other lady tell me there was?), exactly why I asked the first lady for the part number. I hung up and called back. This time I spoke to another saleswoman. She gave me the same story: serviceable,not replaceable. Again, I told her about my first call to them and that I was told there was an alternate part. She looked into it and came back with the same answer... serviceable, not replaceable, no alternate part. So I gave her the Whirlpool part number that I got online and it WAS available. I asked her if it was listed as an alternate part for the OEM board and she said no and that they were two different boards. Strange because every online parts store said it was an alternate replacement part. I ordered the part from her anyway (again, the promise that I could return it if it didn't fix the problem). In the end, part Whirlpool part #8530929 (which looked identical to the OEM part) did fix the dishwasher.

The moral of the story? If a Sears salesman/woman tells you a part isn't available, research it online. I'm thankful I got to speak with the first lady at the Sears 4-MY-HOME line or else I may have given up.

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Originally Posted by Storm27m

I have a Kenmore Dishwasher Model #665 15779. It was working fine the other day and now it doesn't work at all. No lights in the display or anything either. I checked for power at the main connection and it is there. I opened up the front panel and checked the door switch and that appears to be working properly (continuity through both switches when switch is depressed, no continuity when switches are open). I get power all the way into the control module (part #9744031, new replacement is part #8530929). My next guess is that the control module needs replacement, but I don't know how to tell for sure. I've read a part specific note that I should check the thermal fuse before replacing the module, but I can't identify this fuse on the board. Any ideas or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? Thanks for the help.

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HI Storm27,
I have same problem. How did you open the panel to reach control panel? I have kenmore Elite 665.17693201 dishwasher.

Where is the thermal fuse located

Where is the thermal fuse located

I had a very similar situation with a slowly dying touchpad on a Maytag. The touchpad is listed as a Whirlpool replacement part. A local repairman charged me $90 for a visit to tell me the circuit board inside the door was the problem. I replaced the board and had no improvement (luckily Sears online parts allowed a return). After searching the web and being disheartened at the lousy reviews of all of the available dishwashers, from top of the lines to economy models, I began to look for more comprehensive troubleshooting answers.

I found the following non-factory approved procedure on an appliance repair site:

1. Cut power to the dishwasher (circuit breaker or unplug).
2. Open the door and remove the screws (mine were Torx-20 but some models have Philips heads) that hold the inside panel to the outer door to get to the circuit board in its plastic box.
3. Open the box to access the circuit board inside.
4. Unlock and clean off the wide ribbon cable connector end with a SOFT pencil eraser for a couple of minutes. (the white plastic socket has a sliding outer sleeve that can move back and forth to lock or release the ribbon)
5. Reinsert and lock the connector at the circuit board.
6. Put the circuit board box back together and screw the inner liner back into the door.
7. Restore power to the dishwasher.

Partial function was restored and the display worked 100%. I repeated the process and all of the buttons and display returned to full function. I couldn't see corrosion on the ribbon, but it must have been present.

Definitely check the flat cable. I read this tip and checked mine. I'd replaced the microcomputer board and it had not fixed the problem.

I have a Kenmore and the flat ribbon cable is actually terminated in a plug that fits on a finger socket on the board. I pulled it off, looked at it, it appeared clean and the pin connectors with in the plastic plug so I couldn't take an eraser to them. I was going to get some contact cleaner spray, but in the meantime, I reseated it, wiggling it quite a bit and applying pressure as much as was reasonable. Amazingly, that solved the problem. It runs fine now. I'll hold on to the computer, the old one shows some heating on the board near the two resistors below the door latch.but I suspect they are still good.

Save yourself some money - clean and reseat the ribbon cable before replacing the computer board.