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-   -   Upgrading to a Honeywell TH8320 tstat (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=269256)

  • Oct 14, 2008, 10:28 AM
    homrjheath
    Upgrading to a Honeywell TH8320 tstat
    I recently purchased a Honeywell TH8320 programmable thermostat to bring a little energy efficiency to my new home. I have a Carrier 25HBA3 Base Series split system pump with a unit outside, and one indoors (installed up in the attic space above my garage). I detached the previous thermostat and made note of the wire colors and connections, and followed the instructions in the Honeywell manual to the best of my understanding, though I am not finding success in getting the heater to operate.

    Here are the connections as per the previous thermostat:

    W* --
    O -- White Wire
    G -- Green Wire
    R -- Red Wire
    C -- Blue Wire
    Y* -- Yellow Wire

    *There is a small length (about 0.5") of green wire that seems to be acting as a jumper connecting that goes from the W terminal to the Y terminal.

    When I try connecting my Honeywell TH8320, I am not able to get the heat to turn on. I did something last night that had heat coming on when I had it set to cool, but I decided to completely disconnect all wires from their terminals and start from scratch, though to no avail.

    Based on my heat pump, I am assuming that it is a 1H/1C Heat Pump with no auxiliary heat, though perhaps I am mistaken.

    My connections to the Honeywell terminal are as follows:
    RC and R are connected by a jumper, with the red wire from the wall connected to the R terminal.
    C -- Blue Wire
    Y -- Yellow Wire
    G -- Green Wire
    O/B -- White Wire
    The small length of green wire is connected to both the Y terminal and the O/B terminal (Since for conventional systems, it shows that the O/B terminal is actually the W terminal).

    I think I am so close to having this correct, and I am seeking a little help to get me to a more energy efficient home. Thank you for any assistance and guidance!
  • Oct 15, 2008, 03:42 PM
    homrjheath

    I was able to solve this problem on my own - the solution was to remove the sole green wire acting as a jumper between the W and Y terminals.

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