I replaced my Price Pfister shower valves, including diverter, and I cannot stop the slow drip from the spout into the tub. I am a novice DIY'er with an older 1930's triplex. There was no leak before with the previous valves but they were very old, tough to turn on/off, and had water temperature flucutuations.

I had a much worse drip originally but a suggestion to put teflon tape on the new seats slowed the drip to about once every 30 seconds. Nothing appears to be cross threaded to have any sediment. I tried putting silicon grease on the washers for a better seal and that has also not worked. I even tried using the old gasket that was on the other valves because they are wider and seemed better than the new white gaskets that came with the valves. While I was installing the hot water valve the seat did break so I used another new shower seat I had. That valve appears shorter than the other ones but the drip feels cold so I'm not sure that has anything to do with it.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to explain everything that has happened. I am so frustrated and stumped. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Originally Posted by dariusirani

I replaced my Price Pfister shower valves, including diverter, and I cannot stop the slow drip from the spout into the tub. I am a novice DIY'er with an older 1930's triplex. There was no leak before with the previous valves but they were very old, tough to turn on/off, and had water temperature flucutuations.

I had a much worse drip originally but a suggestion to put teflon tape on the new seats slowed the drip to about once every 30 seconds. Nothing appears to be cross threaded to have any sediment. I tried putting silicon grease on the washers for a better seal and that has also not worked. I even tried using the old gasket that was on the other valves because they are wider and seemed better than the new white gaskets that came with the valves. While I was installing the hot water valve the seat did break so I used another new shower seat I had. That valve appears shorter than the other ones but the drip feels cold so I'm not sure that has anything to do with it.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to explain everything that has happened. I am so frustrated and stumped. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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While I was installing the hot water valve the seat did break so I used another new shower seat I had.

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Are you sure you meant seat and not washer? Did you replace the seats as well? If any of the seats are nickes, cracked or have rough spots you would still leak no matter what you did. Let me know, Regards, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Are you sure you meant seat and not washer? Did you replace the seats as well? If any of the seats are nickes, cracked or have rough spots you would still leak no matter what you did. Let me know, Regards, Tom

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Tom,

Thanks for your quick reply! Both seats and washers are brand new. No nicks, etc. The only thing I used that was old was the gasket from the old valve because it appeared to be wider.

Threaded plastic fittings are real easy to crossthread. If any of the seats were crossthreaded when they were installed that would cause them to leak even when the stem's closed. Check and see. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Threaded plastic fittings are real easy to crossthread. If any of the seats were crossthreaded when they were installed that would cause them to leak even when the stem's closed. Check and see. Good luck, Tom

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Thanks Tom. Everything is metal, not plastic. I will check again but I believe I was very careful knowing that crossthreading is a common problem. Using teflon tape did help reduce the drip by 90%. Should I try new seats again with teflon tape to be safe?

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Should I try new seats again with teflon tape to be safe?

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I would. You have to be leaking past the seat and if the washer
S seating correctly then that's about all that's left. Good luck, Tom