I have a 94 civic ex with around 200k 5-spd.

I have checked just about everything,

The yellow CEL light COMES ON and CLICKS AS IT GOES OFF when I turn the key to the on position. And I can hear my fuel pump pressurizing for 2 seconds as this happens as well. TESTED ALL FUSES, TESTED MAIN RELAY, checked for error codes. But everything appeared normal, preformed k-test with dmm at MAP sensor 4.99V ALL GOOD.

Grounded out all the spark plugs on the head of the engine SPARK IS GOOD, I pulled the fuel rail and set it on a towel all connected and cranked it over quick and there were four puddles of fuel, so I'm thinking FUEL IS OK, although I did not test fuel pressure yet. TIMING IS DEAD ON.

Car always ran fine and started right away, the only thing was a slight hesitation around 1500-1700 rpm, other that that OK. I was backing out of a friends driveway, slightly up hill, when the car sputtered and I hit the cluth saved it and tried to back out again, this time it died, and will NOT start back up. The car was LOW ON GAS but not that low, I put some it but still NOTHING!!

The onlything that failed a test was IGNITION Control MODULE, that failed tests 8.5 (checking for voltage on the white/blue end terminal) and 8.7 (checking the resistance between the white/blue wire and the blue wire.) in the chiltons repair manual but passed test 8.3(checking for voltage at the black/yellow wire) but when I ground out the plugs they STILL SPARK?

Would a distributor with a faulty icm still produce a spark?

I will post more later when I get the time. Thanks for any help ahead of time. Mario

I would replace the Ignition Control Module. Failing ICMs can spark but not at the right time. Personally, I would also replace the coil, due to the mileage and age of the car. If the problem persists, replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only).

Awesome, (I was hoping you who would reply, I seen some of your other posts.)

The icm is the only thing I can find that tests faulty, but I was confused as it still sparks. I will look for one, and try that.

I also tested the sensors at the connector by the distributor. Crank etc. and they all tested fine as well.

What about the low on gas issue? Could that have caused this issue? Unfourtuinatly I was listening to music at the time that it gurgled out on me, so I did not hear what the engine did. I only felt it, through the gas pedal. I pushed the clutch pedal in and I believe the car stayed running as I rolled back down the driveway, I attempted to back out again and then I believe it died for good then. I thought it was just low on gas, so I put a gallon in, but it still didn't start, I also put some HEET in the tank, and also sprayed STARTING FLUID on the air filter/in the intake but NOTHING. Didn't even sound like it wanted too.

Sorry for the indepth post, and thank you very much for your time.

Also when I checked for spark it seemed fine, I ground out all the plugs on the head, and had someone else turn the key and I could clearly see white sparks from all the plugs, although they seemed to be at a slow interval.

The bad ICM can still spark, just not with the right timing,

Just curious, did you do a compression test?

No I did not do a compression test, I should just to see, but I don't see any reason why it would suddenly loose compression and not start at all.

Usually how it happens, it does have 200k miles so its seen a lot of wear and tear, a ring could have finally just snaped, and just so happened that it was in your friends driveway... BUTTTT if its only one cylinder,, it could and would possibly start... soooooo I'd look at your ICM first, however it never hurts to do a compression test, I'm guessing that that slight hesitation around 1500 rpm is because its burning oil, which is ither your rings or valve guides, you will rule out the rings if you have good compression

My air filter was extremely dirty so I'm thinking that may have been the cause of the gurgling/hesitation.

OK update, turns out I was testing the ICM INCORRECTLY due the differences in the color of wires in the chiltons manual vs what they were on my car. I retested it and it passed.

What failed was the Ignition Coil in which the Primary resistance was supposed to be .6 to .8 in my book and my tests around 1.0.

The secondary resistance as tested on my car was 16,280,

Crocivickid says the resistance is supposed to be between 9,760 and 14,640 so my would be over,

However my chiltons manual says it can be between 12.8 and 19.8.

Anyone know what common primary resistance numbers are usually on a failed Coil? Mine tested 1.0 the book says .6 to .8

I GOT IT RUNNING!! Thanks to all of you for the help and info. For those interested it I replaced the entire distributor with the 120 one off eBay with the lifetime warranty. And the car started.

Interestingly though the car still sparked before when I checked it numerous times. The points were badly worn on the distributor cap and the screw to hold the rotor on was stuck, also the coil according to my repair manual is supposed to have .6 to .08 ohms of resistance and mine measured on average around 1.0 so I just bought another distributor. Thanks again!

Glad to see installing a new distributor got it running.