Hi guys... I'm back finishing the shower. I fell off a ladder but I'm better now.
I was wondering whether it was better to caulk everything in the shower first and then grout the tiles. Seems it would keep the grout out of the joints I don't want grout in. I would wait for the caulk to cure before grouting.

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Thanks,
Patty :)

Patty..

Super glad to hear you are OK...

As you suspected, you need to caulk first using a mildew-resistant caulking. You can use painter's tape on both sides of the caulk line, install caulk and then drag a wetted finger along the caulk to create a real smooth finish (rewet as needed). After all is smooth you can pull the tape and should be left with a clean-looking job.

Otherwise, they also sell a caulk removal and caulk installation tool kit at home depot or Lowe's... see picture. You install caulking then drag the angled tool over caulking... makes very clean lines, but you will still need to drag a wetted finger over the caulk to make smoothest finish possible.

Let us know if need more information here.

Be careful!

MARK

It actually doesn't matter all that much depending on how careful you are. I always grout first and I keep a tiddy job going by always wiping up excess grout. Caulk is only for the inside corners between walls and along the bottom, those are your flex areas.

I am a Tile man for 20 years. You did a nice job on that shower stall. There is no mildew resistant caulk that works. You can grout all the joints and tile with grout. The only part you may want to caulk with flexible grout that matches the color of your grout is around the shower pan seam that butts up to the tile. Otherwise you will have 2 different colors in the shower and you don't want that cheesey look.

Daps Kwik Seal Plus has a midewcide built right into it as do many others. DAP Products - Caulks, Sealants, Adhesives, Repair and Floor Covering Mold and mildew spores are always present and if they stay wet for more than 24 hours will start to grow. Proper ventilation will remove the wetness as work hitting the tile and pan with a squeege.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Patty..

Super glad to hear you are OK...

As you suspected, you need to caulk first using a mildew-resistant caulking. You can use painter's tape on both sides of the caulk line, install caulk and then drag a wetted finger along the caulk to create a real smooth finish (rewet as needed). After all is smooth you can pull the tape and should be left with a clean-looking job.

Otherwise, they also sell a caulk removal and caulk installation tool kit at home depot or lowes...see picture. You install caulking then drag the angled tool over caulking...makes very clean lines, but you will still need to drag a wetted finger over the caulk to make smoothest finish possible.

Let us know if need more information here.

Be careful!

MARK

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I am one of the best caulkers but I did put the tape on the edge of the shower pan and it came out great. It was easy to wipe it off the tile part. I'm ready to grout now and install the shower doors. I put new shower doors in the iother bathroom but these are frameless so I'll ask if I have any questions.
Thanks
Patty

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

It actually doesn't matter all that much depending on how careful you are. I always grout first and I keep a tiddy job going by always wiping up excess grout. Caulk is only for the inside corners between walls and along the bottom, those are your flex areas.

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My main concern was that the caulk was going to take longer to dry(cure)than the grout and I need my shower ready in a couple of days. My tile is butted up as close as possible so the grouting will be easy and I can install my frameless shower doors.
Thanks,
Patty

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grigoriadis

I am a Tile man for 20 years. You did a nice job on that shower stall. There is no mildew resistant caulk that works. You can grout all the joints and tile with grout. The only part you may want to caulk with flexible grout that matches the color of your grout is around the shower pan seam that butts up to the tile. Otherwise you will have 2 different colors in the shower and you don't want that cheesey look.

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I actually found a caulk that matches the tile color for the corners and along the bottom edge. It looks like the tile wraps around the wall. I'm grouting tomorrow.
Thanks for the compliment on the shower stall. Lots of hard cuts but thank god for my tools. Took my time and did it right.
Thanks,
Patty

[QUOTE=ballengerb1;1295193]Daps Kwik Seal Plus has a midewcide built right into it as do many others. DAP Products - Caulks, Sealants, Adhesives, Repair and Floor Covering Mold and mildew spores are always present and if they stay wet for more than 24 hours will start to grow. Proper ventilation will remove the wetness as work hitting the tile and pan with a squeege.[/QUOTE
Bought the squeege before the shower was done! The caulk I use has the mildewcide in it so I think I'm on target!
Thanks,
Patty

Good job Patty. I remember when you started this project and you have come a long way. It looks like you installed a Swanstone 3260L pan and customized your curb by using tile. When you install your shower door be sure no water gets trapped between the door trim and the inside of your curb. Top of the door frame and the bottom appear to be the same length but read the install instrucions carefully, the top is usually a bit longer.