Hi, I am buying a house with a Rheem Fury water heater model 42V50-40F.
It has piezo ignition. The heater is four years old, and is clean and in otherwise like-new condition.

The gas has been shut off for a couple of months. The water heater is at the opposite end of the house from the gas meter.

When I go through the lighting procedure, I can see the spark from the piezo igniter through the inspection window, but the pilot does not light. I have tried multiple times. Do I need to purge the air from the gas line? How do I do that? Or do I just need to hold the red button down for a while to get gas to the pilot?

The fireplace has a gas igniter, and it works. The fireplace is further "downstream" from the meter than the water heater.

Thanks!

Water heaters and stoves have either a pilot or a piezo ignitor but not both. Are you saying your spark is just is used to light a pilot? That would be very unusual.

Dave hold the red button down while periodically using the ignitor button... This means that you turn dial to pilot, depress button... use ignitor multiple times and when finally lights pilot HOLD RED BUTTON DOWN ANOTHER 30 seconds. Finally release red button, tun dial to on and then set the thermostat dial to about 120 degrees F.

It can take a few minutes and RAPID clicking of ignitor to ignite pilot.

You did check that the gas shutoff to the unit is ON... yes?

Let me know what you think...

MARK

The instructions should be on the water heater itself, but if they're not don't worry. The steps to lighting a pilot light are basically the same for each model.

Take the covers off the bottom. Make sure that you turn the knob to Pilot before removing the covers, this will keep the water heater from kicking on while you're looking inside the bottom of the water heater.

Lit a long match or long lighters used for grills or fireplaces at the end of the tube and hold the reset button on the control valve down.
The gas will quickly light and you'll see the small flame at the end of the tube. Don't release the reset button yet, you'll need to hold it down for about a minute or so to make sure that all air is out and the flame stays lit, install the covers back and put the heater to the on position.

John...

Dave doesn't have that kind of water heater... He has one with an auto. Ignitor outside the closed combustion chamber.

Things have changed over the last few years and now all gas-fired water heaters are required to have closed combustion chambers (to prevent vapor ignition) and ignitors similar to BBQ ingnitor...

Just FYI...

MARK

I got to get up to speed with the new stuff.

YUP.. lots to learn, too Bob.

In fact, to change a thermocouple on these newer water heaters requires that you purchase a thermocouple replacement KIT... this includes thermocouple and new gasket for the closed combustion chamber. Voids warranty if just thermocouple is replaced.

Just FYI... ;)

Check all out at RELY ON RUUD - WWW.RUUD.COM. All gas heaters are now required to be made like this!

MARK

I have not run into one of these yet but I have done 2 tankless water heaters. Things are getting a little more complicated than my little brain can hold. Put in garage door opener for a guy and had to program his cars to open it. Took over an hour to program it. Bill Gates needs to give me some lessons.

Thanks Mark,

I didn't know that learning new things every day.

Regards,
John

Glad to update guys...

Gas water heaters is pretty much all we install up here in Boston area... so I'm right on top of water heating and boiler systems.

And Bob... you said it. You should see some of the electronic control systems they are putting out on the new boilers/furnaces. Some even have mother-boards like in a computer.

Last month I actually had a warrantied water heater that had a lcd and mother-board on it and was displaying PPP... and yes... no instructions so I'm off to internet to finally discover that ppp meant the mother-board itself was bad... ridiculous you ask me!

Have good night guys!

Bleed the gas line first: unscrew gas flex, turn gas on until you smell clean gas coming out, reinstall gas flex and try to re-light.

Your gas system was down for 2 months. Burning and dying pilot lights used all in-gas-pipe remaining gas. Now, you have empty gas line. You have to release the air first and draw gas all the way to the heater.

First simple check. Is the gas cock for the water heater on? If you see the spark but get no ignition of the pilot, then you should spend a few minutes holding down the knob in pilot position and click that sparker as fast as you can. If you still don't get a light, your pilot orfice may be clogged. You can also unthread your pilot tube from from the gas valve. Then push in your pilot knob and see if there is any gas coming out. If there is, your orfice is plugged. If there isn't, you need a new gas valve(not likely).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

Bleed the gas line first: unscrew gas flex, turn gas on until you smell clean gas coming out, reinstall gas flex and try to re-light.

Your gas system was down for 2 months. Burning and dying pilot lights used all in-gas-pipe remaining gas. Now, you have empty gas line. You have to release the air first and draw gas all the way to the heater.

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That's what I thought!

The gas cock is open. I will also try holding down the red button and clicking the igniter rapidly after I make sure that there is gas being supplied.

I'll report back with my results.

Thanks Everyone!