Hi as it says we are having a strange problem with our car. I will try to tell the story with as much fact and conjecture as I can to get any help someone might give.

A couple month ago I was driving to the store and I noticed the radio would not change channels, I figured old car so radio going bad. Coming back from store everything was working fine again.

Next day I drove to store everything working fine, when I came out of store car would not start, it would crack fine but would not run. I tried to use trunk release and door locks but they would not function. I walked home to get my truck and wife to tow car and returned to car. I tried once more to start car and it started right up.

That week we got stimulus check so we took car to good reliable mechanic we use and had him go over car, the car continued to start and he could find nothing in his tests to tell him anything, so we went to pick up car and it would not start.

He found that when it would not start the windows and door locks would not operate even with the ignition on, but still could not find the problem. Sometimes it would start sometimes not, for hours. He down loaded wiring designs and tried everything he could think of.

The oddest part he said was that the door locks are on a completely different circuit and should operate at all times as long as there was a live battery in car.

Eventually it started every time and he did not know if anything he had done fixed it, so we got it back from him after about a week. And he was very nice and did not charge us for his time ( always been exstreamly nice guy ). And the car ran fine for about 4 months then it started messing up again.

It died on my wife one day, but started up again a few minutes later. It would not start for me that night for a little while.

The next morning I pulled it to the side of the driveway and we used my wife's mothers car, for our errands, and the car has not started since.

It has been 3 weeks now, we don't have the money to take to another mechanic, and Shelby the original mechanic did not know what happened when he had it the first time.

Sorry such a long story buy if anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Thanks roger

. Check ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

. Check all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Thanks I will, I have never done that, would you have advice as to how I do that. Web site address for step by step instructions.
Shelby did check on the electronic ignition , but I think you are talking about the contact points on the collum of the steering wheel, is that what you mean.
Thanks roger

Yes. I don't have any step-by-step instructions; however, it's not real difficult.

Also, check both ends of both of the battery cable ends for corrosion. Connections should be clean and free of corrosion.
You may also need to inspect where the engine bay harness passes through the engine bay bulkhead (firewall). Look for damage or chaffing and any evidence of water getting into the harness.

All good ideas Shelby the mechanic did do extensive checks on wiring harness around fire wall and fuse block, and battery cables both look clean and corrosive free.
And he did test electronic ignition all tested fine, it cracks great nice and strong but for some reason it seems not to be getting any fire to ignite the fuel??

It has had a moister problem for years since it was rearended years ago, when fixed it never quite sealed, but I can't seem to find any corroded wires,

So far can't figure out how to get ignition switch out of collum to check it.

Thanks all will keep looking, anymore suggestions keep them coming
Roger

Hey txgreasemonkey could you email me at [email protected] please found something I would like to discuss
Roger

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rhbell

hey txgreasemonkey could you email me at [email protected] please found something i would like to discuss
roger

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That's not how it's supposed to work here, Roger.
Please, ask your questions here on the Desk so that all who read here can benefit from the answers.

Tell us what you have: strong battery?. engine turns over but doesn't fire?. Is there spark? Fuel?

no offence intended captain, but I was giong to ask txgreasemonkey if his garage was anywhere near where I live in Texas.

since he chose not to place that info on this site I was hoping 1 on 1 would help me.

it is all moot now.

while researching Google I found what could be the answer. I will copy-paste what I found, because help desk has been very, very good to me...

this is the coversation that lead me to getting my car started. I will continue after.

posted by fizzerdan on Sep 02, 2008Report abuse
Had a question for you, with the pass key systems used on the gm, I came across a thought and found some information about it. There have been cases where the wires that run from the controller that is behind the glove box to the key switch can break open causing a no/ intermittent start or loss of the fuel injector signal. I did check the signal, tossed the column up and down steer left to right etc, found no change at a constant 5volts. Wondering if you ever had this problem. I will go "ground hunting" and see what I come up with. Although I do have a person interested in the car and a did state there is a problem, still want it so maybe ill let it die. Although now, I really want to find out the problem. Thanks again. Comment by fizzerdan, posted on Sep 05, 2008
darn that is almost as good as bypassing the air pressure tire monitors when you upgrade to aftermarket rims! Got to love cheating. Only question for you about the 60 hz generator, do you have part number and could you give the pins for ecm? Speaking of gm ecms, do you find it odd that two ecms have been replaced in this car. I know they are prom system but I have to wonder if it was just a guess or if they have a known problem?I am a jack of all trades but currently an epg technician so kind of interested in how you used a signal generator to bypass the circuit. Thanks again for the help. Will be working on the car this weekend. Starting with the grounds and going from there. Dan Solve This! I have the same problem.
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OKBest Solutionposted on Sep 05, 2008
SOSCUSTOMS

Rank: Guru
Rating: 91%, 26 votes

sorry so long to get back to you.. yes I have a lot of experience in these. There several ways to fix it. 1st and hardest- the wires that go bad are two white wires right behind the ignition lock cylinder itself. To repair it correctly you must disassemble the steering collumn and remove/replace the ignition CYLINDER with the pass key wiring attatched to it. 2nd you can bypass the cylinder if you want to do it that way. Check the resistance of the key on the pellet(black bump on the shaft), write the resistance down. Go to the bottom of the steering collumn and find the two white wires wich sometimes have a third wire being a gound loop/shield. Find the two wires in question by inserting the key into the ign. And matching the resistance of the key on two of these wires. Should be the outside wires if a three wire set up.
cut the wires once you have found the wires for sure. Go to radioshack and get an assortment of resistors. You need to match the resistance of the key with a combination of resistors that match the key resistance. Take your time to watch the scale on the meter whether it is reading k-1000= ohms or whole ohms. Solder the resistors together and solder them inline with the two wires going to the theft deturant module and wha laa youv'e bypassed the ignition. 3rd- if you want to bypass the system all together then you have to pick up a 60hz generator and wire it onto the ecm. I can get you the pin# and generator info if you need. I am not on here everyday so give me a little time to respond. Good luck- you know where to find me.. scott

Comment by SOSCUSTOMS, posted on Sep 07, 2008
the generator works in place of the pass key module , because that's all the module does when it is "happy" with the key resistance. I have to look for them again. I will fond the lin # too for you.
Rating Locked! (?) fizzerdan has rated this solution as Helpful

rh here
I am not mechanically inclined
I could not figure out how to remove the key ignition switch to check as txgreasemonkey suggested, and as I read this I did not want to tear apart the glove box and steering collum and screw stuff up as usual,, so

I had an idea. Turn the key on wiggle the steering wheel as I crank the engine...

viola the car started after 3 weeks of nothing, it oviously had been a problem for that year of GM.

I hope this helps someone along the way.

here's looking at you kid.

roger