I has my house pre plumbed in '01 for a basement bathroom. I am just about finished and (I knew before) the toilet flange is in the wrong position.meaning the two slots for the bolts are in the wrong location and not parallel to the back wall. It is cast iron. And before I knew it was leaded in. I tried to rotate it with a hammer and a concrete chisel bar.

I cracked the flange which is still pretty solid. But am not sure it will still be secure.
And the flange didn't budge.

I am not sure if using the PVC to cast iron flanges are the way to go. Should I drill out the lead and start over?

I have map gas torch if this will get hot enough to soften the lead I was thinking of doing this until I could turn the flange with channel locks?
Please help

Thanks

Brian...

The slots on a toilet flange should NOT be parallel to the back wall, but instead should be perpendicular to the back wall (or slightly offset so toilet bolts don't pull out of fatter slotted end)..?

What part of the flange is cracked? Where one of the slots is? If this is the case I would suggest that you drill the lead out, remove the oakum, and then go to home depot and pick up a twist and set flange (fits inside pipe). Install this twist and set flange and then anchor to the concrete via tapcon screws or plastic anchor with screws.

You could also repair the flange using a spanner flange (spans the cracked slot) but I wouldn't as it is pretty easy and clean at this time to simply remove old flange and install new.

Do not soften lead with a torch and try to rotate the flange... lead is too deep to soften... never mind that some lead could splatter and burn you... ;)

Let us know if need more information...

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Brian...

The slots on a toilet flange should NOT be parallel to the back wall, but instead should be perpendicular to the back wall (or slightly offset so toilet bolts don't pull out of fatter slotted end)...??

What part of the flange is cracked?? Where one of the slots is?? If this is the case I would suggest that you drill the lead out, remove the oakum, and then go to home depot and pick up a twist and set flange (fits inside pipe). Install this twist and set flange and then anchor to the concrete via tapcon screws or plastic anchor with screws.

You could also repair the flange using a spanner flange (spans the cracked slot) but I wouldn't as it is pretty easy and clean at this time to simply remove old flange and install new.

Do not soften lead with a torch and try to rotate the flange...lead is too deep to soften...never mind that some lead could splatter and burn you...;)

Let us know if need more information...

MARK

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Thanks for the tips Mark. The part that is broken is at one of the small holes they cast into the ring for mounting to a surface. I can kind of see that there are some small gaps from where they poured the concrete. I did get a couple different flanges one that has three allen screws that fits into the pipe then you tighten to expand the rubber collar.
The other one I have has a rubber collar but this one just pushes down into the pipe and looks like it will be easier to use,and has a larger throat.. Question can I cut cast iron with my sawz all and metal cutting blades if I need to trim some from the top in order for these devices to work?

If only cracked at one of the holes I really don't think you need to replace the flange... but up to you as you can actually see what is going on... ;)

Yes... you could cut cast with sawzall and metal cutting blades or maybe even better to get an angle grinder with a diamond blade (see picture) and use this to make any cuts. The grinder is much faster if you should need to decrease height of pipe. Just be sure to wear goggles!

You can rent the grinder if necessary (or purchase cheap one for $30.00) and can purchase a diamond grinder wheel at any home supply store!

Good luck...

MARK

We have ran into this problem many times before. Just like Mark suggests: take a grinder and cut your own slots in cast iron ring - and ignore the old ones. It is the easiest approach to your present situation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal

We have ran into this problem many times before. Just like Mark suggests: take a grinder and cut your own slots in cast iron ring - and ignore the old ones. It is the easiest approach to your present situation.

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So just grind my own slots into the cast? Pretty interesting.. I will see if I can just make the originals longer..

Thanks!

No...no...I don't know what Milo is talking about here..?

What is this about slots being parallel to the back wall.. explain please? Slots need to be perpendicular like I posted earlier...

Get back to me, please.

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

No...no...I don't know what Milo is talking about here...??

What is this about slots being parallel to the back wall..explain please?? Slots need to be perpendicular like I posted earlier....

Get back to me, please.

MARK

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Mark, When they leaded the flange, the two slots for the toilet bolts are not in the correct position for the mounting of the toilet.
I already broke off the cast iron and have a pvc to cast iron adapter. I just need to cut off mor cast iron drain because with the pvc adapter on top it sticks up about 2"

Brian... you don't need a cast iron to pvc adapter in this case...

You need a twist and set flange that can be used on cast iron or pvc.
Please post again and let me know if we can still help here...

MARK

I took off the cast flange and used a pvc to cast adapter that has a stainless steel flange. The reason is that the idiot who set the flange in the first place ,set it wrong so the slots weren't running the correct way, and it was about 3/4" too high out of the ground and not level. I cut many slits into the cast pipe then broke them off with a wrench making nice clean edges. Then put wax from an old ring around the rubber on the new flange and stepped on it until it seated all the way down and now I am done. Thank you all for helping me understand what I needed to do.

Glad if we helped, Brian... ;)

MARK