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-   -   GFCI receptable "partly" working (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=255851)

  • Sep 2, 2008, 01:51 PM
    Electricals nov
    GFCI receptable "partly" working
    An electrician installed a GFCI receptacle in the bathroom. THe little green light in the receptacle is on, and the Test and Reset buttons both work. And a lamp and a shaver do work in the receptacle. But a hairdryer barely turns over. The hairdryer works in other receptacles in the house, but just hums very quietly in the GFCI. I changed the GFCI for a new one, slightly different model, and with the same results.

    I am thinking it is a weak connection in the circuit somewhere. If that's it, how do I test for where the problem is?

    If that's not it, what is wrong?
  • Sep 2, 2008, 02:00 PM
    hkstroud
    I agree with your diasnosis of a poor connection some where? Was the GFI installed on an esixting circuit or was an new circuit also installed?
  • Sep 2, 2008, 03:04 PM
    Electricals nov
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hkstroud
    I agree with your diasnosis of a poor connection some where? Was the GFI installed on an esixting circuit or was an new circuit also installed?

    Unfortunately he put it on an existing circuit, with a few junction boxes along the way.

    Is there a way to test where the problem might be, without opening up all connections along the way?

    Many thanks!
  • Sep 2, 2008, 03:29 PM
    Stratmando
    Hopefully it is #12 wiring anyway, I woud go to center junction box, see how much voltage drops at that point. Now you know which direction to go. If several boxes, repeat.
    It needs its own circuit to bath.
  • Sep 2, 2008, 03:40 PM
    hkstroud
    Plug hair dryer in each receptacle to insure amperage at each one. If hair dryer works in each, pull last one and look at connections. Hot and neutral, insure good connections. If you don't find a fault there go to GFI. Make sure properly connected to "Line" side and that polarity is correct. Some, if not most GFI's are wired, not by wrapping the wire under the screw, but by placing the wire under a pressure bar or tab. Make sure that insulation is striped back far enough so that there is good contact with the bare wire and not the insulation. Make sure that screw is tight. (This is where I suspect the problem is.)
  • Sep 3, 2008, 01:44 PM
    Electricals nov
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Stratmando
    Hopefully it is #12 wiring anyway, I woud go to center junction box, see how much voltage drops at that point. now you know which direction to go. If several boxes, repeat.
    It needs its own circuit to bath.

    Will try that, but how do I test the voltage at junction boxes. Is there a device that will do it on outside of a wire, or do I need to open up the wire nuts?

    Agree bath GFCI needs its own circuit; don't know why this fellow didn't put one in.
  • Sep 3, 2008, 01:45 PM
    Electricals nov
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hkstroud
    Plug hair dryer in each receptacle to insure amperage at each one. If hair dryer works in each, pull last one and look at connections. Hot and neutral, insure good connections. If you don't find a fault there go to GFI. Make sure properly connected to "Line" side and that polarity is correct. Some, if not most GFI's are wired, not by wrapping the wire under the screw, but by placing the wire under a pressure bar or tab. Make sure that insulation is striped back far enough so that there is good contact with the bare wire and not the insulation. Make sure that screw is tight. (This is where I suspect the problem is.)

    There aren't any other receptacles on this circuit, just lights and junction boxes, and everything else seems to be working OK.
  • Sep 3, 2008, 06:37 PM
    hkstroud
    Check your connections at the GFI, I suspect that the clamp bar or tab is in contact with the insulation, not the bare wire. Checking voltage won't tell you any thing. You have voltage, just don't have amperage. To check that you need an Amprobe and a load on the line.

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